Leek

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum · Amaryllidaceae
Vegetable Biennial Bulb Food
Introduced - native to the Mediterranean and western Asia

Safe for people; like all alliums, toxic to dogs and cats in quantity. The tough dark-green leaf tops are edible but usually cooked into stock rather than eaten whole.

Overview

The elegant, hardy allium: a long-season crop grown for its mild, tender white shank - deep-planted and hilled to blanch it, and cold-hardy enough to dig from frozen ground.

Leeks are the patient gardener's allium: no bulb to wait on, just a thick, tender, mild-flavored shank that takes most of a season to build but rewards you with a vegetable far more refined than onion. They're the backbone of leek-and-potato soup, and prized wherever a gentle onion flavor is wanted without the bite.

Two things define growing leeks. First, the blanched white shank is the prize, and you create it by planting deep and hilling soil up the stem so the buried portion stays pale and tender. Second, leeks are remarkably cold-hardy — the right varieties stand through hard freezes and can be dug fresh all winter, making them one of the few vegetables that bridge the cold-season gap.

At a glance

Sun
Full sun · Part sun
Water
Medium
Spacing
4–8 in (typ. 6)
Mature height
12–36 in (typ. 24)
Start by
Direct sow · Transplant
Frost
Hardy
Germination
7–16 days (typ. 12) @ 50–77 °F (typ. 70)
Start indoors
8–12 wks (typ. 10) before transplant
Spread
3–6 in (typ. 4)
Soil
Well-drained
Temperature
Damaged below 0°F · struggles above 85°F
Seed ready
400–480 days (typ. 440) (for saving)

When to plant

Mar 13 – Apr 24
Primary TransplantSpring
Spring transplants for a fall-into-winter harvest; choose overwintering varieties for standing crops.

Zone 7a typical frost: last Apr 10 · first Oct 25 (spring frost runs Mar 27–Apr 24 in a typical spread of years)

Life stages

  1. Germination day 0–12 from sowing
    • Keep the mix evenly moistevery 1 d
      Leek seed is slow, like all alliums. Start indoors 8-12 weeks before your transplant date and keep the surface damp at 65-75°F.
    • Expect grassy, looping sprouts
      Seedlings emerge as a single looped thread, then straighten into a chive-like blade. Fresh seed matters - allium seed dies within a year or two.
    No emergence after 3 weeks (old seed or cold mix)
  2. Seedling day 12–70 from sowing
    • Trim tops to keep seedlings stockyevery 21 d
      When the grassy tops reach about 5 inches, snip them back to ~3 inches; this thickens the plants and channels energy into roots.
    • Grow on until pencil-thick
      Transplant when seedlings are 6-8 inches tall and roughly pencil-thick. Harden off over a week - leeks are cold-tolerant and can go out early.
    Leggy, floppy tops from weak lightDamping off in soggy trays
  3. Shank building day 0–100 from transplant
    • Transplant into deep dibbled holes
      Make holes 5-6 inches deep with a dowel, drop one pencil-thick seedling into each, and just water it in - don't backfill. The soil settles in slowly and the deep hole blanches a long white shank.
    • Hill up soil 2-3 times as they growevery 30 d
      Every few weeks, draw loose soil (or add mulch/collars) up around the stems - a couple of inches each time. Each hilling lengthens the tender, white, blanched shank, which is the prize.
    • Feed nitrogen through the long seasonevery 28 d
      Leeks grow for months; side-dress or liquid-feed with nitrogen every 3-4 weeks to build size.
    • Water evenly, about 1 inch/weekevery 7 d
      Steady moisture keeps the shanks growing and tender; don't let leeks dry out during their long push.
    Soil washing into the leaf fans during hilling (gritty layers - keep it out of the crown)Orange pustules on leaves (rust)Shot-hole feeding or tunneling (leek moth)
  4. Harvest day 100–160 from transplant
    • Lift as needed once shanks are usable
      Harvest anytime from pencil-thick 'baby' leeks to full 1-2 inch shanks. Loosen with a fork and lift - the roots grip hard. Take them as you cook; leeks hold in the ground for weeks.
    • Overwinter hardy types with mulch
      Hardy leeks stand through hard frost and can be dug all winter under a deep straw mulch in mild and moderate zones - fresh leeks in January are a real reward.
    A hard round flower bud forming in the center (bolting - use those leeks first, they turn woody)Ground freezing solid before you mulch (dig or protect ahead of it)

Harvest

Style
One-time harvest
Typical yield
1 leeks
By weight
4–16 oz (typ. 8)
It's ready when
  • White shank at least 1 inch thick and 6+ inches long
  • Firm, upright plant with healthy blue-green fans
  • No central flower stalk (harvest bolted plants first)
What you harvest
Shankmain crop
Cooked · Soup · Braised · Sauteed
The blanched white-to-pale-green lower stem is the tender, prized part.
Green tops
Stock · Soup
The tough dark-green flags are strong-flavored - best simmered into stock rather than eaten as-is.

Watch out for

White Rot (Allium) High DiseaseApr, May, Jun

The most serious allium disease there is. A soil fungus (Sclerotium cepivorum) rots the roots and the base of the bulb, growing a white fluffy mold over it studded with tiny black sclerotia like poppy seeds. Those sclerotia survive in the soil for twenty years or more and germinate whenever an allium is planted above them, so a bed that gets it is finished for alliums within a home gardener's timescale. It arrives on infected planting stock and on moved soil.

Watch for: Yellowing, wilting plants that pull up far too easily because the roots have gone, and - on the rotted bulb base - white cottony fungal growth with tiny black poppy-seed-like dots through it.

Prevent: This is entirely about never introducing it. Buy certified disease-free seed stock, sets and plants, never plant grocery-store bulbs or cloves, quarantine new stock, and do not move soil, bulbs or tools between an affected bed and a clean one. Once it is in, it is essentially permanent.

Treat: There is no viable garden treatment. Remove and bin infected plants, never compost them, and do not grow alliums in that soil again. This is why clean planting-stock discipline matters more here than for any other allium problem.

Leeks are fully susceptible where it is present. Use clean seed and plants, and avoid moving infested soil into the bed.

Rust (Allium) Medium DiseaseJun, Jul, Aug, Sep

A fungal disease that raises bright orange pustules on allium leaves. The pustules destroy green tissue, and since those leaves are what feed the bulb, a heavy infection shrinks the crop or weakens the clump. It builds in humid weather, in crowded plantings and in high-nitrogen soil, and it rarely reaches the bulb itself.

Watch for: Orange-red raised dots and streaks on the leaf blades, worst in humid spells and on crowded, poorly spaced or congested plantings.

Prevent: Give wide spacing and full sun so the leaves dry quickly, avoid overhead watering and excess nitrogen, divide congested perennial clumps, and rotate alliums on a three-year cycle. Rust-tolerant varieties are available in some allium crops.

Treat: Strip or shear off the worst-affected leaves early and let clean growth come back, improving airflow at the same time. A bulb crop usually still matures, so harvest on schedule rather than writing it off - rust rarely reaches the bulb itself.

Leeks are especially prone to rust, and it is the standard late-season complaint on them. Strip the worst leaves and the plants still crop, since the shank itself is rarely affected. Bandit and Tadorna are among the rust-tolerant varieties.

Onion Maggot Medium PestApr, May, Jun, Jul

The larvae of a small gray fly - the onion fly is the same insect - that lays its eggs at the base of allium plants. The white maggots tunnel into the bulb, shank or stem base, and the damage they leave opens the door to soft rot, so the plant yellows, wilts and collapses into a mush. It is worst in cool, wet springs, in unrotated allium beds, and in dense rows where the maggots can work from one plant to the next.

Watch for: Individual plants yellowing and wilting while their neighbors look fine, and - on pulling one - small white maggots with brown, slimy rot in the bulb base, shank or stem.

Prevent: Rotate alliums yearly, cover the crop with row fabric through the fly's spring egg-laying window, space plants out rather than growing them in dense rows, and never plant into fresh manure, which draws the flies in.

Treat: There is no rescue for a maggot-riddled bulb. Pull and destroy infested plants rather than composting them, and never save affected bulbs for replanting. Beneficial nematodes drenched into the soil help suppress the larvae in a bed you have to keep using.

The maggots work in the shank base - the part you actually eat - so an infested leek is a write-off rather than a trimming job.

Leek Moth Medium PestMay, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep

A small brown moth (Acrolepiopsis assectella) whose caterpillars mine and tunnel into leek leaves and down into the shank, causing 'shot-hole' and windowpane damage and opening the plant to rot. Now established in the northeastern US and eastern Canada, with two or three generations a year.

Watch for: Rows of tiny holes and pale windowpane patches on leaves, tunneling into the central leaves and shank, and small cream-and-brown caterpillars or their silk cocoons on the foliage.

Prevent: Cover the crop with row fabric during the moth's flight periods (spring and late summer) - the single most effective defense; rotate alliums and clean up debris where pupae overwinter.

Treat: Remove and destroy infested leaves; Bt or spinosad timed to young larvae helps. Parasitoid wasps (Trichogramma) are being used as biocontrol where the moth is established.

Thrips Low PestJun, Jul, Aug

Tiny slender sap-sucking insects that rasp at leaves, buds and petals and drink what runs out, leaving silvery-white streaking and fine flecking, brown scorched patches, and new growth that comes out twisted or fails to open. They breed fast in hot, dry weather, shelter deep in leaf sheaths, folds and unopened buds where sprays struggle to reach, and several species also transmit plant viruses - which is often more damaging than the feeding itself.

Watch for: Silvery-white streaks and fine speckling on leaves and petals, brown discolored patches, distorted buds and blooms that fail to open properly, and tiny sliver-like insects that drop out when you shake foliage or a flower over a sheet of white paper. Worst in hot, dry spells and on drought-stressed plants.

Prevent: Scout early, before the damage reaches the part of the plant you care about. Start with clean planting stock, keep plants well watered since drought-stressed plants suffer worst, avoid heavy nitrogen, clear weedy hosts nearby, and hang blue or yellow sticky traps to catch the first arrivals. Reflective mulch deters them, and predatory mites, lacewings and minute pirate bugs do real work outdoors.

Treat: A strong water spray dislodges light infestations, and on a plant that can take it a hard shear and clean regrowth clears them outright. For heavier pressure use insecticidal soap, neem or spinosad, aimed down into the leaf sheaths and buds where thrips actually shelter, and repeat at intervals since eggs and pupae escape a single spray. Spinosad is a registered insecticide: use only a product labeled for the crop you are treating, follow the label exactly, and observe its pre-harvest interval.

Leeks tolerate moderate thrips levels without complaint. Heavy feeding through a hot dry summer reduces vigor and shows as silvery scarring down in the leaf axils.

Good & bad neighbors

Plant nearby
CarrotThe classic allium-carrot pairing: leek scent is credited with masking carrots from the carrot rust fly, and carrot scent with confusing onion/leek flies. No competition.
CeleryLong-season row-mates with matching moisture and feeding needs; a traditional and practical pairing.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
CabbageAlliums are traditionally credited with deterring cabbage moths from brassica beds.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
BeetBeets and leeks grow well side by side with different needs and root depths.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
StrawberryOften interplanted; some growers report the allium scent discourages pests around strawberries.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
Keep apart
PeaAlliums are widely reported to inhibit legumes and their nitrogen-fixing bacteria - keep leeks out of the pea and bean beds.
Bush beanThe same allium-legume conflict: leeks are said to stunt beans and interfere with nitrogen fixation.

Varieties · 6

American Flag (Broad London)100–135 days (typ. 120)

Medium-long white shanks topped with broad blue-green leaf fans.

heirloomstandardcold-hardy

The classic garden heirloom: thick, uniform shanks with blue-green flags, good flavor, and reliable cold tolerance for fall and early-winter harvest. A dependable all-purpose leek.

BanditZones 5a–8b120–150 days (typ. 135)

Stocky, thick shanks with very dark blue-green, frost-hardy leaves.

overwinteringcold-hardystorageRust (moderate)

The go-to overwintering leek: short, thick, dark blue-green plants bred to stand through hard winters for fresh digging into spring. Slow to bolt and rust-tolerant.

Bleu de SolaizeZones 4a–8b100–150 days (typ. 120)

Thick shanks with dramatic blue-green leaves turning purple in cold weather.

heirloomoverwinteringcold-hardy

A beautiful French heirloom whose blue-green leaves flush violet in cold - very hardy for overwintering, with thick shanks and rich flavor. A gardener's favorite for looks and toughness.

Giant Musselburgh105–150 days (typ. 120)

Very thick, short white shanks with broad fan-shaped green leaves.

heirloomlargecold-hardy

A big, mild Scottish heirloom (since the 1830s): fat, tender shanks that grow to impressive size, cold-hardy and forgiving. A great beginner leek for size and reliability.

King Richard75–100 days (typ. 85)

Very long, slim, pale shanks with light-green tops.

earlylong-shankfast

The fastest, most tender leek: extra-long, slender white shanks ready weeks ahead of most. Ideal for baby leeks and an early crop - but not winter-hardy, so harvest before hard freezes.

TadornaZones 5a–8b100–130 days (typ. 110)

Uniform medium-thick shanks with dark blue-green upright leaves.

fallcold-hardyuniformRust (moderate)

A dependable fall and early-winter leek: uniform, thick, dark blue-green shanks with good standing ability and rust tolerance. A market-grower favorite that suits home gardens well.

Grow

Start seed indoors 8-12 weeks early, transplant pencil-thick seedlings into deep dibbled holes, then hill up soil through the season.

Start leeks indoors 8-12 weeks before your transplant date — they're slow, like all alliums — and grow them on until they're 6-8 inches tall and about pencil-thick. Trimming the grassy tops back to a few inches keeps the seedlings stocky.

The transplanting method is the classic trick: use a dowel to make holes 5-6 inches deep, drop one seedling into each hole, and simply water it in without backfilling. The soil settles in around the plant over time, and the deep hole gives you a long, white, blanched shank for free. Space 6 inches apart in rows a foot or more apart, in rich, well-drained soil in full sun. Then, every few weeks, hill up loose soil or mulch around the stems — each hilling lengthens the tender white portion.

Care

Feed and water through the long season, hill up for longer shanks, and keep gritty soil out of the leaf fans.

Leeks grow for three to four months or more, so care is a steady rhythm rather than a sprint. Feed nitrogen every few weeks, water about an inch a week (leeks want even moisture through their long push), and keep the bed weeded — alliums compete poorly.

The signature task is hilling: draw a couple of inches of soil up around the stems two or three times over the season to extend the blanched shank. Do it carefully — soil that falls into the fan of leaves lodges as grit between the layers and is a nuisance to wash out later. Many growers slip a cardboard tube or collar around each stem instead of soil for cleaner shanks. Beyond that, watch for rust and leek moth (see Threats), and you're mostly waiting.

Harvest

Lift leeks anytime from baby to full size; hardy types stand in the ground through winter for fresh digging under mulch.

There's no precise harvest date — leeks are usable at any size, from slender 'baby' leeks (thin the row and use these young) to full shanks 1-2 inches thick. Loosen the soil with a fork before pulling; leek roots grip hard and the shanks snap if you just yank.

Leeks' best feature is that they wait for you. They hold in the ground for weeks without bolting or spoiling, and hardy overwintering varieties stand through hard frost — bank a deep straw mulch over the row and you can dig fresh leeks through winter in most zones. Only when a plant sends up a hard round flower bud in spring does it turn woody; use those first.

Storage

The garden is the best storage - leave hardy leeks in the ground; once lifted, they keep 1-2 weeks in the fridge, or freeze chopped.

The simplest storage is no storage: leave hardy leeks standing in the ground under mulch and dig them as needed. Once lifted, leeks keep 1-2 weeks in the crisper — wrap them to contain the oniony smell that permeates a fridge, and don't trim the roots until you use them.

For longer keeping, leeks freeze well for cooking: slice, wash thoroughly (grit hides between the layers), and freeze in bags for soups and braises — no blanching needed for a few months' use. The dark-green tops that seem too tough to eat freeze separately as a ready supply of stock flavoring.

Growing across climates

Cold-hardy nearly everywhere: northern gardens grow a spring-to-fall crop; mild and moderate zones overwinter leeks for winter digging.

Leeks are among the most cold-tolerant vegetables, which shapes their use by region. Zones 3-6: start early indoors, transplant in spring, and harvest from late summer through fall; a deep mulch lets hardy types stand into or through winter. Zones 7-8: the sweet spot for overwintering leeks — spring or fall transplants of hardy varieties (Bandit, Bleu de Solaize) stand in the ground all winter for fresh digging. Zones 9-10: grow leeks as a cool-season crop, transplanting in fall for a winter-to-spring harvest, since summer heat pushes them to bolt. Everywhere, match the variety to the job: fast, tender summer types (King Richard) for an early crop, tough blue-leaved types for standing through cold.

Troubleshooting

Thin shanks mean crowding or a short season; gritty layers come from careless hilling; bolting follows cold spells or overwintering into spring.

Thin, small shanks: usually crowding, too little feeding, or not enough season — start earlier, space adequately, and feed through the summer. Short white portion: not planted deep enough or not hilled — use the deep-hole method and hill up as they grow. Grit between the leaf layers: soil fell into the crown during hilling; use collars or hill carefully, and always split and wash leeks well before cooking. A hard flower bud in the center (bolting): triggered by a cold spell on young plants or by overwintered leeks hitting spring — harvest promptly, as bolted shanks turn woody. Orange leaf pustules (rust) and shot-hole/tunneling damage (leek moth): see Threats.

Nutrition

A gentle allium carrying the family's health chemistry - vitamin K, folate, manganese, and prebiotic fibers - at everyday cooking quantities.

Leeks deliver the allium family's nutrition in a form you eat by the cupful rather than the clove. They're a good source of vitamin K, vitamin A, folate, manganese, and vitamin C, and they carry the same organosulfur compounds and antioxidant flavonoids (notably kaempferol) that give onions and garlic their health reputation, plus prebiotic inulin fiber that feeds beneficial gut bacteria.

Because leeks are eaten in real portions — a soup can use several — their contribution is more substantial than a seasoning allium's. Most of the goodness is in the white and light-green shank you actually eat; the dark tops carry more vitamin A but head to the stockpot. Grow them for flavor and comfort-food soups; the nutrition rides along.

In the kitchen

The refined onion: sweated as a delicate base, the soul of leek-and-potato soup, braised whole as a side, or crisped as a garnish.

Leeks are what you reach for when onion would be too aggressive. Sweated slowly in butter, sliced leeks melt into a sweet, silky base for soups, tarts, and sauces — gentler and more elegant than onion. They are of course the heart of leek-and-potato soup (and its chilled French cousin vichyssoise), and pair beautifully with potatoes, cream, cheese, and eggs.

Beyond the soup pot: whole young leeks braised in stock and finished with vinaigrette (poireaux vinaigrette) are a classic side; leeks are wonderful in quiche, gratins, and risotto; and the trimmings crisp up as a garnish. Always split and wash them well first — grit hides between the tight layers — and save the tough green tops for stock.

Propagation & seed saving

A biennial: overwinter a few plants to flower in year two for seed, or let one make bulbils - leeks are their own seed stock.

Like their allium cousins, leeks are biennial, flowering and setting seed in their second year. To save seed, leave a few of your best plants in the ground over winter (they're hardy enough in most zones) and let them bolt the next summer into tall, spherical flower heads that bees love. The flowers ripen into black seed you can rub out and dry — but note the allium catch: leek seed is short-lived, viable only a year or two, so save fresh and sow soon.

Some leeks also form small bulbils at the base or in the flower head; these can be replanted like tiny sets to clone a favorite plant without waiting on seed. And because leeks cross-pollinate with other flowering leeks (and, being Allium ampeloprasum, with elephant garlic), isolate varieties if you want pure seed. Save from open-pollinated types, not hybrids.

Traditional & historical uses

Shares the allium family's gentle, food-level health tradition - mild cardiovascular and antimicrobial support - rather than any distinct remedy of its own.

This section records how people have traditionally used this plant, and what is known about the risks. It is history and general information — not medical advice, and not a recommendation to treat anything. Plants are not dosed like medicines, some interact with prescriptions, and some are harmful in ways that are not obvious. Talk to a clinician before using any plant medicinally.

Leeks don't carry a strong standalone medicinal tradition, but they inherit the well-documented reputation of the allium family. The organosulfur compounds, kaempferol, and prebiotic fibers they share with onions and garlic are linked in research to modest cardiovascular benefit, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, and gut-health support — the same gentle, food-as-medicine effects, delivered in the larger portions leeks are eaten in.

Historically, leeks were valued as a strengthening, throat-soothing food — the Roman emperor Nero reportedly ate them to improve his voice, and they carried folk use for coughs and digestion. Keep it honest: this is the quiet benefit of eating a healthful vegetable regularly, not a treatment. As alliums go, the leek is the mild, everyday member — nutrition and comfort more than pharmacy.

History

An ancient Mediterranean and Near Eastern crop, beloved by Romans and adopted as the national symbol of Wales.

Leeks are one of the oldest cultivated alliums, grown in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia and especially prized by the Romans, who spread them across their empire. The emperor Nero was nicknamed Porrophagus (leek-eater) for his fondness of them. As a hardy vegetable that stood through winter when little else grew, the leek became a staple of northern European cottage gardens through the Middle Ages.

Its most famous role is national: the leek is the emblem of Wales, worn on St. David's Day, by tradition after Welsh soldiers wore leeks in their caps to tell friend from foe in a battle against the Saxons. From humble winter soup vegetable to heraldic symbol, the leek has kept its place for millennia as the reliable, cold-defying, gentle allium of the kitchen garden.

Grower tips

No grower tips for Leek yet. Yours could be the first.

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