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Leek
Safe for people; like all alliums, toxic to dogs and cats in quantity. The tough dark-green leaf tops are edible but usually cooked into stock rather than eaten whole.
Overview
The elegant, hardy allium: a long-season crop grown for its mild, tender white shank - deep-planted and hilled to blanch it, and cold-hardy enough to dig from frozen ground.
Leeks are the patient gardener's allium: no bulb to wait on, just a thick, tender, mild-flavored shank that takes most of a season to build but rewards you with a vegetable far more refined than onion. They're the backbone of leek-and-potato soup, and prized wherever a gentle onion flavor is wanted without the bite.
Two things define growing leeks. First, the blanched white shank is the prize, and you create it by planting deep and hilling soil up the stem so the buried portion stays pale and tender. Second, leeks are remarkably cold-hardy — the right varieties stand through hard freezes and can be dug fresh all winter, making them one of the few vegetables that bridge the cold-season gap.
At a glance
- Sun
- Full sun · Part sun
- Water
- Medium
- Spacing
- 4–8 in (typ. 6)
- Mature height
- 12–36 in (typ. 24)
- Start by
- Direct sow · Transplant
- Frost
- Hardy
- Germination
- 7–16 days (typ. 12) @ 50–77 °F (typ. 70)
- Start indoors
- 8–12 wks (typ. 10) before transplant
When to plant
Zone 7a typical frost: last Apr 10 · first Oct 25
Life stages
- Germination day 0–12 from sowing
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Keep the mix evenly moistevery 1 dLeek seed is slow, like all alliums. Start indoors 8-12 weeks before your transplant date and keep the surface damp at 65-75°F.
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Expect grassy, looping sproutsSeedlings emerge as a single looped thread, then straighten into a chive-like blade. Fresh seed matters - allium seed dies within a year or two.
No emergence after 3 weeks (old seed or cold mix) -
Keep the mix evenly moistevery 1 d
- Seedling day 12–70 from sowing
-
Trim tops to keep seedlings stockyevery 21 dWhen the grassy tops reach about 5 inches, snip them back to ~3 inches; this thickens the plants and channels energy into roots.
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Grow on until pencil-thickTransplant when seedlings are 6-8 inches tall and roughly pencil-thick. Harden off over a week - leeks are cold-tolerant and can go out early.
Leggy, floppy tops from weak lightDamping off in soggy trays -
Trim tops to keep seedlings stockyevery 21 d
- Shank building day 0–100 from transplant
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Transplant into deep dibbled holesMake holes 5-6 inches deep with a dowel, drop one pencil-thick seedling into each, and just water it in - don't backfill. The soil settles in slowly and the deep hole blanches a long white shank.
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Hill up soil 2-3 times as they growevery 30 dEvery few weeks, draw loose soil (or add mulch/collars) up around the stems - a couple of inches each time. Each hilling lengthens the tender, white, blanched shank, which is the prize.
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Feed nitrogen through the long seasonevery 28 dLeeks grow for months; side-dress or liquid-feed with nitrogen every 3-4 weeks to build size.
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Water evenly, about 1 inch/weekevery 7 dSteady moisture keeps the shanks growing and tender; don't let leeks dry out during their long push.
Soil washing into the leaf fans during hilling (gritty layers - keep it out of the crown)Orange pustules on leaves (rust)Shot-hole feeding or tunneling (leek moth) -
Transplant into deep dibbled holes
- Harvest day 100–160 from transplant
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Lift as needed once shanks are usableHarvest anytime from pencil-thick 'baby' leeks to full 1-2 inch shanks. Loosen with a fork and lift - the roots grip hard. Take them as you cook; leeks hold in the ground for weeks.
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Overwinter hardy types with mulchHardy leeks stand through hard frost and can be dug all winter under a deep straw mulch in mild and moderate zones - fresh leeks in January are a real reward.
A hard round flower bud forming in the center (bolting - use those leeks first, they turn woody)Ground freezing solid before you mulch (dig or protect ahead of it) -
Lift as needed once shanks are usable
Harvest
- Style
- Repeated picking
- Typical yield
- 1 leeks
- By weight
- 4–16 oz (typ. 8)
- White shank at least 1 inch thick and 6+ inches long
- Firm, upright plant with healthy blue-green fans
- No central flower stalk (harvest bolted plants first)
Watch out for
White Rot (Allium) Disease HighApr, May, Jun
The most serious allium soil disease: a fungus that rots the roots and bulb base with white fluffy growth and tiny black sclerotia that persist in soil for 20+ years. Shallots are fully susceptible.
Watch for: Yellowing, wilting plants that pull up easily; white cottony fungus and poppy-seed-like black dots on the rotted bulb base.
Prevent: Buy certified disease-free sets, never plant grocery bulbs or into infested soil, and quarantine new stock. Once introduced it is essentially permanent.
Treat: None viable for gardens - remove and trash infected plants and never grow alliums in that soil again. This is why clean seed-stock discipline matters.
Rust (Allium) Disease MediumJun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Fungal disease producing bright orange pustules on the leaves; heavy infections shrink the bulb cluster by cutting the plant's solar panels.
Watch for: Orange-red raised dots and streaks on the leaf blades, worst in humid spells and crowded plantings.
Prevent: Wide spacing for airflow, full sun, avoid overhead watering and excess nitrogen, and rotate alliums on a 3-year cycle.
Treat: Strip the worst leaves early; the crop usually still matures. Harvest on schedule - rust rarely reaches the bulbs themselves.
Onion Maggot Pest MediumApr, May, Jun, Jul
Larvae of a small gray fly that tunnel into allium bulbs and stems, opening the door to rot; worst in cool, wet springs and unrotated allium beds.
Watch for: Wilting or yellowing individual plants; small white maggots in the bulb base when a plant is pulled.
Prevent: Rotate alliums yearly, cover spring growth with row fabric during the fly's egg-laying window, and avoid planting into fresh manure.
Treat: Remove and destroy infested plants (don't compost); beneficial nematodes applied to the soil help suppress larvae.
Leek Moth Pest MediumMay, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
A small brown moth (Acrolepiopsis assectella) whose caterpillars mine and tunnel into leek leaves and down into the shank, causing 'shot-hole' and windowpane damage and opening the plant to rot. Now established in the northeastern US and eastern Canada, with two or three generations a year.
Watch for: Rows of tiny holes and pale windowpane patches on leaves, tunneling into the central leaves and shank, and small cream-and-brown caterpillars or their silk cocoons on the foliage.
Prevent: Cover the crop with row fabric during the moth's flight periods (spring and late summer) - the single most effective defense; rotate alliums and clean up debris where pupae overwinter.
Treat: Remove and destroy infested leaves; Bt or spinosad timed to young larvae helps. Parasitoid wasps (Trichogramma) are being used as biocontrol where the moth is established.
Thrips Pest LowJun, Jul, Aug
Tiny slender insects that rasp petals and leaves, streaking and distorting the blooms and silvering the foliage, worst in warm, dry weather.
Watch for: Silvery streaks and flecks on petals and leaves, distorted or discolored flowers, tiny slivers moving when you blow on a bloom.
Prevent: Keep plants healthy and watered; encourage predatory mites and lacewings; blue sticky traps help monitor.
Treat: Insecticidal soap or spinosad for heavy infestations; often thrips simply arrive with the heat that's ending the season anyway.
Good & bad neighbors
Varieties · 6
The classic garden heirloom: thick, uniform shanks with blue-green flags, good flavor, and reliable cold tolerance for fall and early-winter harvest. A dependable all-purpose leek.
The go-to overwintering leek: short, thick, dark blue-green plants bred to stand through hard winters for fresh digging into spring. Slow to bolt and rust-tolerant.
A beautiful French heirloom whose blue-green leaves flush violet in cold - very hardy for overwintering, with thick shanks and rich flavor. A gardener's favorite for looks and toughness.
A big, mild Scottish heirloom (since the 1830s): fat, tender shanks that grow to impressive size, cold-hardy and forgiving. A great beginner leek for size and reliability.
The fastest, most tender leek: extra-long, slender white shanks ready weeks ahead of most. Ideal for baby leeks and an early crop - but not winter-hardy, so harvest before hard freezes.
A dependable fall and early-winter leek: uniform, thick, dark blue-green shanks with good standing ability and rust tolerance. A market-grower favorite that suits home gardens well.
Grow
Start seed indoors 8-12 weeks early, transplant pencil-thick seedlings into deep dibbled holes, then hill up soil through the season.
Start leeks indoors 8-12 weeks before your transplant date — they're slow, like all alliums — and grow them on until they're 6-8 inches tall and about pencil-thick. Trimming the grassy tops back to a few inches keeps the seedlings stocky.
The transplanting method is the classic trick: use a dowel to make holes 5-6 inches deep, drop one seedling into each hole, and simply water it in without backfilling. The soil settles in around the plant over time, and the deep hole gives you a long, white, blanched shank for free. Space 6 inches apart in rows a foot or more apart, in rich, well-drained soil in full sun. Then, every few weeks, hill up loose soil or mulch around the stems — each hilling lengthens the tender white portion.
Care
Feed and water through the long season, hill up for longer shanks, and keep gritty soil out of the leaf fans.
Leeks grow for three to four months or more, so care is a steady rhythm rather than a sprint. Feed nitrogen every few weeks, water about an inch a week (leeks want even moisture through their long push), and keep the bed weeded — alliums compete poorly.
The signature task is hilling: draw a couple of inches of soil up around the stems two or three times over the season to extend the blanched shank. Do it carefully — soil that falls into the fan of leaves lodges as grit between the layers and is a nuisance to wash out later. Many growers slip a cardboard tube or collar around each stem instead of soil for cleaner shanks. Beyond that, watch for rust and leek moth (see Threats), and you're mostly waiting.
Harvest
Lift leeks anytime from baby to full size; hardy types stand in the ground through winter for fresh digging under mulch.
There's no precise harvest date — leeks are usable at any size, from slender 'baby' leeks (thin the row and use these young) to full shanks 1-2 inches thick. Loosen the soil with a fork before pulling; leek roots grip hard and the shanks snap if you just yank.
Leeks' best feature is that they wait for you. They hold in the ground for weeks without bolting or spoiling, and hardy overwintering varieties stand through hard frost — bank a deep straw mulch over the row and you can dig fresh leeks through winter in most zones. Only when a plant sends up a hard round flower bud in spring does it turn woody; use those first.
Storage
The garden is the best storage - leave hardy leeks in the ground; once lifted, they keep 1-2 weeks in the fridge, or freeze chopped.
The simplest storage is no storage: leave hardy leeks standing in the ground under mulch and dig them as needed. Once lifted, leeks keep 1-2 weeks in the crisper — wrap them to contain the oniony smell that permeates a fridge, and don't trim the roots until you use them.
For longer keeping, leeks freeze well for cooking: slice, wash thoroughly (grit hides between the layers), and freeze in bags for soups and braises — no blanching needed for a few months' use. The dark-green tops that seem too tough to eat freeze separately as a ready supply of stock flavoring.
Growing across climates
Cold-hardy nearly everywhere: northern gardens grow a spring-to-fall crop; mild and moderate zones overwinter leeks for winter digging.
Leeks are among the most cold-tolerant vegetables, which shapes their use by region. Zones 3-6: start early indoors, transplant in spring, and harvest from late summer through fall; a deep mulch lets hardy types stand into or through winter. Zones 7-8: the sweet spot for overwintering leeks — spring or fall transplants of hardy varieties (Bandit, Bleu de Solaize) stand in the ground all winter for fresh digging. Zones 9-10: grow leeks as a cool-season crop, transplanting in fall for a winter-to-spring harvest, since summer heat pushes them to bolt. Everywhere, match the variety to the job: fast, tender summer types (King Richard) for an early crop, tough blue-leaved types for standing through cold.
Troubleshooting
Thin shanks mean crowding or a short season; gritty layers come from careless hilling; bolting follows cold spells or overwintering into spring.
Thin, small shanks: usually crowding, too little feeding, or not enough season — start earlier, space adequately, and feed through the summer. Short white portion: not planted deep enough or not hilled — use the deep-hole method and hill up as they grow. Grit between the leaf layers: soil fell into the crown during hilling; use collars or hill carefully, and always split and wash leeks well before cooking. A hard flower bud in the center (bolting): triggered by a cold spell on young plants or by overwintered leeks hitting spring — harvest promptly, as bolted shanks turn woody. Orange leaf pustules (rust) and shot-hole/tunneling damage (leek moth): see Threats.
Nutrition
A gentle allium carrying the family's health chemistry - vitamin K, folate, manganese, and prebiotic fibers - at everyday cooking quantities.
Leeks deliver the allium family's nutrition in a form you eat by the cupful rather than the clove. They're a good source of vitamin K, vitamin A, folate, manganese, and vitamin C, and they carry the same organosulfur compounds and antioxidant flavonoids (notably kaempferol) that give onions and garlic their health reputation, plus prebiotic inulin fiber that feeds beneficial gut bacteria.
Because leeks are eaten in real portions — a soup can use several — their contribution is more substantial than a seasoning allium's. Most of the goodness is in the white and light-green shank you actually eat; the dark tops carry more vitamin A but head to the stockpot. Grow them for flavor and comfort-food soups; the nutrition rides along.
In the kitchen
The refined onion: sweated as a delicate base, the soul of leek-and-potato soup, braised whole as a side, or crisped as a garnish.
Leeks are what you reach for when onion would be too aggressive. Sweated slowly in butter, sliced leeks melt into a sweet, silky base for soups, tarts, and sauces — gentler and more elegant than onion. They are of course the heart of leek-and-potato soup (and its chilled French cousin vichyssoise), and pair beautifully with potatoes, cream, cheese, and eggs.
Beyond the soup pot: whole young leeks braised in stock and finished with vinaigrette (poireaux vinaigrette) are a classic side; leeks are wonderful in quiche, gratins, and risotto; and the trimmings crisp up as a garnish. Always split and wash them well first — grit hides between the tight layers — and save the tough green tops for stock.
Propagation & seed saving
A biennial: overwinter a few plants to flower in year two for seed, or let one make bulbils - leeks are their own seed stock.
Like their allium cousins, leeks are biennial, flowering and setting seed in their second year. To save seed, leave a few of your best plants in the ground over winter (they're hardy enough in most zones) and let them bolt the next summer into tall, spherical flower heads that bees love. The flowers ripen into black seed you can rub out and dry — but note the allium catch: leek seed is short-lived, viable only a year or two, so save fresh and sow soon.
Some leeks also form small bulbils at the base or in the flower head; these can be replanted like tiny sets to clone a favorite plant without waiting on seed. And because leeks cross-pollinate with other flowering leeks (and, being Allium ampeloprasum, with elephant garlic), isolate varieties if you want pure seed. Save from open-pollinated types, not hybrids.
Medicine
Shares the allium family's gentle, food-level health tradition - mild cardiovascular and antimicrobial support - rather than any distinct remedy of its own.
Leeks don't carry a strong standalone medicinal tradition, but they inherit the well-documented reputation of the allium family. The organosulfur compounds, kaempferol, and prebiotic fibers they share with onions and garlic are linked in research to modest cardiovascular benefit, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, and gut-health support — the same gentle, food-as-medicine effects, delivered in the larger portions leeks are eaten in.
Historically, leeks were valued as a strengthening, throat-soothing food — the Roman emperor Nero reportedly ate them to improve his voice, and they carried folk use for coughs and digestion. Keep it honest: this is the quiet benefit of eating a healthful vegetable regularly, not a treatment. As alliums go, the leek is the mild, everyday member — nutrition and comfort more than pharmacy.
History
An ancient Mediterranean and Near Eastern crop, beloved by Romans and adopted as the national symbol of Wales.
Leeks are one of the oldest cultivated alliums, grown in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia and especially prized by the Romans, who spread them across their empire. The emperor Nero was nicknamed Porrophagus (leek-eater) for his fondness of them. As a hardy vegetable that stood through winter when little else grew, the leek became a staple of northern European cottage gardens through the Middle Ages.
Its most famous role is national: the leek is the emblem of Wales, worn on St. David's Day, by tradition after Welsh soldiers wore leeks in their caps to tell friend from foe in a battle against the Saxons. From humble winter soup vegetable to heraldic symbol, the leek has kept its place for millennia as the reliable, cold-defying, gentle allium of the kitchen garden.
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