Prasorizo (Greek Leeks and Rice)

From the garden

• 4 large leeks, split, rinsed, and sliced into half-moons
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• ½ cup fresh dill, chopped

From the pantry

• 1 cup long-grain or medium-grain rice, rinsed until the water runs clear
• ⅓ cup olive oil · an olive-oil dish wants a generous pour; this is where the body comes from
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 2½ cups vegetable stock
• 1 lemon, half juiced, half cut into wedges
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Trim the leeks, split them lengthwise, and rinse under cold running water, fanning the layers open to flush out the grit that hides between them. Slice into half-moons, pale green parts included.
2. Warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy pot over medium-low heat and cook the leeks and onion with a good pinch of salt, stirring often, about 15 minutes, until collapsed, sweet, and barely colored.
3. Stir in the garlic and tomato paste and cook 1 minute, until the paste darkens to brick red, then add the rice and turn it through the oil so every grain goes glossy.
4. Pour in the stock, bring to a simmer, then cover and cook over the lowest heat 18–20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the pot looks loose and creamy rather than dry.
5. Fold in the dill and the lemon juice off the heat, season with salt and plenty of black pepper, and rest covered 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges.