Leeks Vinaigrette with Egg

From the garden

• 8 medium leeks, trimmed to the pale green, split lengthwise, rinsed · slender leeks are ideal; 4 large ones also work
• 1 small shallot, finely minced
• 2 tbsp parsley or chives, finely chopped

From the pantry

• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 6 tbsp olive oil
• 2 eggs, hard-boiled and peeled
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Trim the leeks where the green turns dark and tough, split each one lengthwise from an inch above the root, and fan the layers under cold running water until no grit is left between them.
2. Simmer the leeks in a wide pan of well-salted water, held flat under a plate, 12–18 minutes depending on thickness, until a knife meets no resistance at the root end. A little overcooked beats squeaky.
3. Lift the leeks onto a folded towel, cut side down, and press gently. Draining them properly is the whole difference, since water trapped in the layers thins the dressing to nothing.
4. Whisk the mustard, vinegar, shallot, and a good pinch of salt in a small bowl, then whisk in the olive oil in a slow stream until the dressing turns thick and creamy. Season with black pepper.
5. Arrange the warm leeks in a shallow dish, spoon the vinaigrette over them, and push the eggs through a sieve or grate them over the top. Scatter the herbs and rest 20 minutes before serving, warm or at room temperature.