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Shallot
The gourmet allium: plant one set and harvest a cluster of mild, sweet, fine-flavored bulbs - grown like garlic, tasting like a refined onion.
Safety notes Safe for people (the green tops are edible like scallions); like all alliums, toxic to dogs and cats in quantity.
Overview
Shallots are the chef's onion - milder, sweeter, and more complex than a bulb onion, with a hint of garlic. They grow on the multiplier principle: plant a single small bulb (a 'set') and it divides underground into a whole cluster of shallots, so a handful of sets returns a season's supply. That, plus their long storage and premium price at the store, makes them one of the most rewarding small-space alliums.
The one thing to knowTheir calendar is garlic-adjacent.
Quick facts
- Sprouts in
- 12 daysRange: 7–16 days
- Soil temperature
- 70 °FRange: 50–85 °F
- Start indoors
- 10 weeks before transplantRange: 8–12 weeks
- Height
- 12 inRange: 8–18 in
- Spread
- 6 inRange: 4–10 in
- Cold
- Takes hard frostdamaged below 0°F
- Heat
- Struggles above 90°F
- Life cycle
- Grown as an annualBotanically a perennial
- Save seeds
- Second yearafter overwintering a few plants
- Soil
- Well-drained
- Water
- Medium
- Plant spacing
- 6 inRange: 4–8 in
When to plant
Nothing is open today. Spring planting opens 5 months, Mar 13 to Apr 10.
- Plant tubers Mar 13 – Apr 10 Opens in 145 daysAbout 4 weeks before to at your last frost (Apr 10 here)Spring alternative where you'd rather not overwinter; slightly smaller clusters than fall-set.
- Plant tubers Sep 13 – Oct 11 Opens in 329 daysAbout 6 weeks before to 2 weeks before your first frost (Oct 25 here)Fall-plant sets like garlic, 2-6 weeks before the ground freezes, and mulch; fall crops size up bigger. Spring planting also works.
Frost here: last around Apr 10 (Mar 27 to Apr 24 most years), first around Oct 25. Zone averages, your own yard may run a week or two either way.
Life stages
From the first start to harvest
Follow the growing sequence. Choose a stage to see its care and signs to watch for.
Stage 1 of 4 · The growing sequence
Rooting in
Day 0 to 30 from sowing
Care at this stage
-
Water in at planting, then keep just moist
Push sets pointed-end-up an inch deep so the tip barely shows, 6 inches apart. Water in to settle them; sets need moisture to root but rot in soggy soil.
-
Mulch fall plantings for winter
fall-planted only
Where fall-planted, mulch after the ground chills to protect the sets through freeze-thaw; pull it back as growth resumes in spring.
Stages can overlap; weather, variety, and growing conditions change the pace.
Harvest
- Two-thirds or more of the tops yellowed and flopped over
- The cluster has split into distinct, full bulbs - set-grown types only; seed-grown shallots (Ambition, Conservor, Prisma) make one bulb per plant and never form a cluster
- Skins papering over and necks softening
- Lift the clumps when most tops have fallen
- Cure 2-3 weeks in a dry, airy place
Per plant 4 to 12 bulbs, 3 to 12 ozPicking pull once
Cook with shallots
Watch out for
4 to know. 1 is high-risk: White Rot (Allium). None are active in October.
White Rot (Allium)Severity High DiseaseSeason: Apr–JunYellowing, wilting plants that pull up far too easily because the roots have gone, and - on the rotted bulb base - white cottony fungal growth with tiny black poppy-seed-like dots through it.
Shallots are fully susceptible, and because they are usually grown from saved sets the disease travels easily with the planting stock. Buy certified sets and never plant grocery bulbs.
Yellowing, wilting plants that pull up far too easily because the roots have gone, and - on the rotted bulb base - white cottony fungal growth with tiny black poppy-seed-like dots through it.
There is no viable garden treatment. Remove and bin infected plants, never compost them, and do not grow alliums in that soil again. This is why clean planting-stock discipline matters more here than for any other allium problem.
This is entirely about never introducing it. Buy certified disease-free seed stock, sets and plants, never plant grocery-store bulbs or cloves, quarantine new stock, and do not move soil, bulbs or tools between an affected bed and a clean one. Once it is in, it is essentially permanent.
The most serious allium disease there is. A soil fungus (Sclerotium cepivorum) rots the roots and the base of the bulb, growing a white fluffy mold over it studded with tiny black sclerotia like poppy seeds. Those sclerotia survive in the soil for twenty years or more and germinate whenever an allium is planted above them, so a bed that gets it is finished for alliums within a home gardener's timescale. It arrives on infected planting stock and on moved soil.
Onion MaggotSeverity Medium PestSeason: Apr–JunIndividual plants yellowing and wilting while their neighbors look fine, and - on pulling one - small white maggots with brown, slimy rot in the bulb base, shank or stem.
As with any clustered allium, one maggot has several bulbs within reach once it is inside. Lift and destroy the whole affected cluster, and never keep bulbs from it for replanting.
Individual plants yellowing and wilting while their neighbors look fine, and - on pulling one - small white maggots with brown, slimy rot in the bulb base, shank or stem.
There is no rescue for a maggot-riddled bulb. Pull and destroy infested plants rather than composting them, and never save affected bulbs for replanting. Beneficial nematodes drenched into the soil help suppress the larvae in a bed you have to keep using.
Rotate alliums yearly, cover the crop with row fabric through the fly's spring egg-laying window, space plants out rather than growing them in dense rows, and never plant into fresh manure, which draws the flies in.
The larvae of a small gray fly - the onion fly is the same insect - that lays its eggs at the base of allium plants. The white maggots tunnel into the bulb, shank or stem base, and the damage they leave opens the door to soft rot, so the plant yellows, wilts and collapses into a mush. It is worst in cool, wet springs, in unrotated allium beds, and in dense rows where the maggots can work from one plant to the next.
Rust (Allium)Severity Medium DiseaseSeason: Apr–JulOrange-red raised dots and streaks on the leaf blades, worst in humid spells and on crowded, poorly spaced or congested plantings.
Rust shrinks the whole bulb cluster rather than a single bulb, so leaf area matters more here than on a single-bulb onion. Space the clusters properly and go easy on nitrogen.
Orange-red raised dots and streaks on the leaf blades, worst in humid spells and on crowded, poorly spaced or congested plantings.
Strip or shear off the worst-affected leaves early and let clean growth come back, improving airflow at the same time. A bulb crop usually still matures, so harvest on schedule rather than writing it off - rust rarely reaches the bulb itself.
Give wide spacing and full sun so the leaves dry quickly, avoid overhead watering and excess nitrogen, divide congested perennial clumps, and rotate alliums on a three-year cycle. Rust-tolerant varieties are available in some allium crops.
A fungal disease that raises bright orange pustules on allium leaves. The pustules destroy green tissue, and since those leaves are what feed the bulb, a heavy infection shrinks the crop or weakens the clump. It builds in humid weather, in crowded plantings and in high-nitrogen soil, and it rarely reaches the bulb itself.
Stem & Bulb NematodeSeverity Medium PestSeason: Apr–JulStunted, swollen or twisted plants; soft, spongy bulbs with cracked or discolored basal tissue; bloated leaf bases.
Stunted, swollen or twisted plants; soft, spongy bulbs with cracked or discolored basal tissue; bloated leaf bases.
None in-season. Destroy infected crops, hot-compost nothing from them, and rest that bed from alliums for 4+ years.
The whole defense is clean stock: certified seed, sets, and transplants, and never replant from a suspect crop.
Microscopic worms that live inside onion tissue, causing bloated, twisted, stunted growth and soft, cracked bulbs - spread almost entirely through infected planting stock and seed.
Good & bad neighbors
Plant nearby
-
The classic allium-carrot pairing: shallot scent is credited with masking carrots from the carrot rust fly. Different root depths, no competition.
- Traditional pairings, thin evidence
-
Beets and shallots grow well side by side with different needs and root depths.
-
Alliums are traditionally credited with helping deter cabbage moths from brassica beds.
-
Low lettuce fills the ground between upright shallots; the allium scent may deter aphids from tender greens.
-
Often interplanted; some growers report the allium scent discourages pests around strawberries.
Varieties · 6
You pick one when you add Shallot to your garden. Its days to maturity set your harvest window.
Set-Grown (Multiplier) Shallots 3 varieties
French Red (Frog Legs)
The traditional French cooking shallot: coppery-red skin over pink-tinged flesh, rich, refined flavor, and excellent storage.
Variety details for French Red (Frog Legs)
Elongated teardrop bulbs with reddish-brown skin and pink-white flesh.
redstorageclassicThe gourmet standard and a dependable multiplier from sets.
French Grey (Griselle)
The prized 'true' shallot of French cuisine: knobby grey-brown skin over firm, intensely flavored flesh.
Variety details for French Grey (Griselle)
Small, elongated, knobby bulbs with grey-brown skin and violet-tinged flesh.
greygourmetstorageSlower and lower-yielding than red types, but unmatched for flavor - the connoisseur's shallot.
Dutch Yellow (Golden Gourmet)
A reliable, high-yielding yellow-brown shallot that stores exceptionally well and sizes up large; milder and more forgiving than the grey type.
Variety details for Dutch Yellow (Golden Gourmet)
Rounded, plump bulbs with coppery-yellow skin and white flesh.
yellowstorageproductiveA great first shallot from sets.
Seed-Grown Shallots 3 varieties
Ambition
A leading seed-grown shallot: uniform, single, well-sized red-brown bulbs with strong flavor and long storage, ideal for growing from seed like onions.
Variety details for Ambition
Uniform round-to-teardrop bulbs with coppery skin and firm flesh.
red-brownuniformstorageConsistent and productive.
Conservor
A seed-grown French-type shallot with elongated grey-brown bulbs, fine flavor, and outstanding storage life into spring - the seed route to gourmet-quality shallots.
Variety details for Conservor
Long, torpedo-shaped bulbs with grey-brown skin.
grey-brownlong-storagePrisma
A productive seed-grown red shallot with attractive uniform bulbs and good storage; a modern favorite for reliable size and yield from seed.
Variety details for Prisma
Uniform teardrop bulbs with bright reddish-brown skin.
reduniformhigh-yield
Grower tips
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