Quinoa

Chenopodium quinoa · Amaranthaceae
Grain Annual Herb Food
Introduced - native to the Andean highlands of South America

Quinoa seed is a wholesome, gluten-free, complete-protein grain, but its natural coating of bitter SAPONINS must be rinsed or soaked off before cooking (some 'sweet' low-saponin varieties need little rinsing). Unrinsed seed tastes soapy and can upset the stomach - rinse until the water runs clear. The young leaves are edible like spinach, but like their relatives chard and spinach they are high in OXALATES, so eat them cooked and in normal amounts, moderating if prone to kidney stones.

Overview

The Andes' 'mother grain': a cool-season pseudo-grain and close relative of lamb's quarters that gives fluffy, gluten-free, complete-protein seeds plus edible spinach-like leaves, on a plant crowned with spectacularly colorful seed heads.

Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa) is the celebrated 'mother grain' of the Andes - a pseudo-grain, not a true cereal grass, but a broad-leaved herb in the goosefoot family, a close cousin of both spinach and the wild lamb's quarters. Its tiny disc-shaped seeds cook up fluffy like a grain and are famous as a nutritional powerhouse: naturally gluten-free and one of the few plant foods with a genuinely complete protein, carrying all nine essential amino acids. As a bonus, its young leaves are edible cooked like spinach, making it a dual grain-and-greens crop.

It is also one of the most beautiful things you can grow. Come late summer the plants throw up big branched seed heads in vivid greens, golds, pinks, reds, oranges, and purples, so a quinoa patch reads as ornamental as it is edible. Quinoa is a cool-season crop, happiest with warm days and cool nights - the opposite of its warm-loving pseudo-grain relative amaranth - which makes it a superb choice for cool-summer, short-season, and high-elevation gardens. The one quirk every grower learns: the seeds carry a bitter natural coating of saponins that must be rinsed off before eating, an easy last step for a genuinely rewarding home grain.

At a glance

Sun
Full sun
Water
Low
Spacing
6–18 in (typ. 12)
Mature height
24–84 in (typ. 60)
Start by
Direct sow
Frost
SemiHardy
Germination
3–10 days (typ. 5) @ 45–75 °F (typ. 60)
Spread
8–24 in (typ. 14)
Soil
Well-drained
Temperature
Damaged below 25°F · struggles above 95°F
Seed ready
90–130 days (typ. 110) (for saving)
Self-sows
Yes — expect volunteers

When to plant

Mar 27 – May 1
Primary Direct sowSpring
Direct sow in early-to-mid spring as the soil can be worked, from about two weeks before to a few weeks after last frost - established seedlings take light frost. As a cool-season crop it wants to bloom before extreme summer heat, so sow on the early side.

Zone 7a typical frost: last Apr 10 · first Oct 25 (spring frost runs Mar 27–Apr 24 in a typical spread of years)

Life stages

  1. Germination day 0–6 from sowing
    • Sow shallow into cool, moist spring soilevery 3 d
      Quinoa is a cool-season crop that germinates fast in cool, moist ground - often in 3-5 days. Sow the small seed shallow (a quarter to half an inch) into a firm, moist bed as early as the soil can be worked; unlike warm-season grains it does not need heat to start, and it dislikes hot soil.
    • Firm the bed and keep birds off broadcast seed
      Rake in or lightly cover broadcast seed for good soil contact and to keep birds from eating it. A firm, even seedbed gives the most uniform stand.
    Fast emergence in cool, moist soilPoor germination if soil is hot and dryBirds eating broadcast seed
  2. Seedling & thinning day 7–35 from sowing
    • Thin to spacing once seedlings are up
      Quinoa seedlings look much like their weedy relative lamb's quarters. Thin them to about 8-14 inches apart in the row so each plant can build a full seed head; crowded plants stay thin and yield little.
    • Keep weeds down while quinoa is small
      Young quinoa competes poorly and grows slowly at first, so keep the bed weeded until the plants take off. Tell quinoa seedlings from weeds by planting in defined rows. Established seedlings tolerate light frost, down to around 25F.
    Slow early growth (normal)Weeds outcompeting small seedlingsFlea beetles or leaf miners on young leaves
  3. Leafy growth (greens available) day 40–70 from sowing
    • Pick young leaves as a cooked green (optional)every 10 d
      Before the plant flowers you can harvest some of the tender young leaves and cook them like spinach - quinoa is a leaf-and-grain crop, and the greens are a nutritious bonus. Take only a modest share so the plant keeps building toward its seed head. Cook them (they share the oxalates of spinach and chard).
    • Give steady moisture as the plant bulks upevery 7 d
      Quinoa is drought-tolerant once established but sizes its future seed head on adequate moisture during rapid growth. Keep it evenly moist through this stage, then it needs less as it ripens.
    Rapid upright growthHeat stress if a hot spell hits earlyAphids clustering on growing tips
  4. Flowering & seed fill (colorful heads) day 70–110 from sowing
    • Watch the colorful seed heads form and fill
      Quinoa pushes up large branched seed heads (panicles) that can be green, gold, pink, red, orange, purple, or nearly black depending on variety - as ornamental as they are edible. It is largely self-pollinating, so a small planting sets seed fine. The tiny seeds fill from milk to dough to hard over several weeks.
    • Guard against heat sterility during bloom
      The one real weakness: sustained high heat (above roughly 90-95F) during flowering can make the pollen sterile and cause poor seed set. In hot regions, time the crop so it flowers in cooler weather, and keep it watered through any heat.
    Poor seed set after heat above 90-95F at bloomDowny mildew (yellow leaf patches, gray mold beneath) in humid weatherBirds beginning to work the filling heads
  5. Grain harvest day 110–118 from sowing
    • Cut when the seed is hard and the leaves have droppedevery 3 d
      Quinoa is ready when most leaves have yellowed and dropped, the plant is drying to gold or its varietal color, and the seed is hard - you cannot dent it with a thumbnail and it rubs free of the head when you rake your hand down it. A light frost that dries the plant is fine. Cut the heads into a bag or onto a tarp on a dry day.
    • Thresh, winnow, then RINSE the saponins
      Dry the heads, then thresh (rub the seed loose) and winnow away the chaff in a breeze. The essential final step unique to quinoa: RINSE or soak the clean seed in several changes of water until it no longer foams and the water runs clear, to wash off the bitter saponin coating, then dry it again for storage.
    Seed sprouting in the head if rain soaks the ripe crop (harvest promptly)Shattering (seed dropping) if left too longDamp seed molding - dry it fully before storing

Harvest

Style
One-time harvest
By weight
1–8 oz (typ. 3)
First production
1–1 yrs (typ. 1)
It's ready when
  • Most leaves have yellowed and dropped and the plant has dried to gold or its varietal color
  • The seed is hard - it cannot be dented with a thumbnail and rubs free of the head by hand
  • The seed heads rustle dry and shed a little seed when shaken
What you harvest
Seed headmain crop
Cooked whole grain · Salads and bowls · Ground to flour · Porridge
The tiny disc-shaped seeds are cooked like rice as a fluffy, gluten-free complete-protein grain, added to salads and bowls, or ground to flour. Rinse or soak them first to remove the bitter saponin coating.
Leaf
Cooked greens (like spinach) · Saute · Soup
The young leaves are edible cooked like spinach (a bonus green from a grain crop), high in nutrients but also in oxalates like their relatives chard and spinach - eat cooked and in normal amounts.

Watch out for

Downy Mildew (Green Ear) High DiseaseJun, Jul, Aug

A fungus-like disease (Peronospora) that is quinoa's most important affliction, favored by humid, wet weather, causing yellow leaf patches with grayish-purple downy mold on the undersides and, when severe, defoliation and reduced yield.

Watch for: Pale yellow streaking on leaves with white downy growth on the undersides, stunting, and heads transformed into malformed, leafy, grainless 'green ears'.

Prevent: Grow resistant varieties, space for airflow, avoid overhead watering (especially late in the day), rotate away from goosefoot-family crops, and do not crowd plants.

Treat: Remove badly infected leaves and improve airflow; there is no easy home cure once established, so resistant varieties and dry-foliage culture are the main defenses.

The signature quinoa disease - humid, wet climates should prioritize resistant varieties and good spacing.

Aphids Medium PestMay, Jun, Jul

Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.

Watch for: Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.

Prevent: Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.

Treat: Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.

The same aphids that work quinoa's beet and spinach relatives turn up here. Rarely serious on a vigorous stand - a nuisance more than a threat in most gardens.

Birds & Wildlife Medium WildlifeAug, Sep, Oct

Birds find ripening fruit and seed before you do. Robins, waxwings, starlings, catbirds, jays, sparrows, finches, blackbirds, and doves all work a garden, and the pressure arrives in a narrow window - the last days before harvest, when sugar rises, color changes, and the crop softens or the grain hardens. A flock can strip a small planting in a day or two, and birds that only peck rather than take whole fruit still leave wounds that rot or draw wasps. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other wildlife usually turn up on the same crop at the same time. This is competition rather than disease: the birds are not harming the plant, and a big tree or a heavy-cropping bush often has enough for everyone - but on a small planting it can be the difference between a harvest and none.

Watch for: Fruit disappearing from the outermost, most exposed parts of the plant first, and from the top of a tree where you cannot reach anyway. Single neat pecks and gouges in ripening fruit, with several fruits sampled rather than one eaten through - the classic sign that it was birds rather than an animal. Heads of grain or seed going visibly lighter and emptier as they ripen, with hulls and chaff scattered underneath. Freshly sown seed vanishing off the surface of a bed before it germinates. Bird traffic in and out of the plant picking up as the crop colors, and birds waiting on nearby wires and branches. Wasps arriving at the pecked and split fruit shortly afterward.

Prevent: Net, and net early. Bird netting draped over a frame or hoops so it stands off the fruit, with the edges closed at ground level, is the only thing that reliably works at harvest scale - and it has to go on before the crop starts to color, because once birds have found the food they are far harder to displace. Keep fruit trees small enough that netting them is actually feasible; that decision gets made years earlier, at planting. Bags of mesh, organza, or paper slipped over individual heads, clusters, or prize fruit protect a small crop without netting the whole plant. Then shorten the exposure: pick promptly and completely rather than leaving ripe fruit hanging as a lure, clear split and dropped fruit that draws birds and wasps alike, and where a crop can finish off the plant, harvest a little early and ripen or dry it under cover. Rake in or cover broadcast seed so it is not lying in plain view.

Treat: There is no treatment once a crop is being taken - only protection and timing, so the answer is to get netting on and to pick what is ready. Reflective tape, flash ribbon, spinners, and decoy predators do work, but only for a few days at a time: birds habituate fast, so move and rotate them and never rely on them as the main defense for a crop you care about. Cut and gather grain or seed heads a little early, at firm dough, and finish drying them under cover instead of leaving them standing for the flocks. Plant a little extra, or a decoy crop the birds prefer, and accept sharing anything that crops heavily. On a wild or foraged patch, fruit going to birds and small mammals is the point of the plant rather than a problem to solve.

The main harvest-time nuisance for a small quinoa patch. Net the plot or bag the heads as the seed fills, and harvest promptly once the seed is hard rather than leaving it standing.

Pre-Harvest Sprouting Medium DisorderSep, Oct

Quinoa seed germinates readily, so rain on a dead-ripe crop can make the seed sprout right in the head before it is harvested, ruining its quality and storage life.

Watch for: Tiny root or shoot tips emerging from seeds in the head, or a greenish tinge and sprouty smell after wet weather on ripe grain.

Prevent: Harvest promptly once the seed is hard, especially in wet climates, and choose varieties and timing that let the crop finish in dry weather.

Treat: None once sprouted - harvest and salvage what is unsprouted; prevention through prompt, dry-weather harvest is the only real answer.

A wet-climate risk at ripening - the reason to cut quinoa as soon as the seed hardens rather than leaving it standing.

Leaf Miners Low PestMay, Jun, Jul

The same leaf miners that affect spinach, chard, and beets sometimes tunnel quinoa leaves, leaving pale winding or blotchy trails - cosmetic and rarely damaging to the grain crop.

Watch for: Pale, winding squiggly tunnels or translucent blotches inside the leaves, sometimes with tiny larvae visible when held to the light.

Prevent: Remove badly mined leaves, rotate away from beet-family crops, and use row cover early if miners are a known problem.

Treat: Pick off and destroy affected leaves; a vigorous, well-watered plant easily outgrows light damage. Cut back hard for a clean fresh flush if heavily hit.

A shared beet-family pest - cosmetic on a grain crop grown mainly for seed.

Good & bad neighbors

Plant nearby
CornA pleasant tall grain-garden pairing: corn gives quinoa a bit of afternoon shelter in hot spells (which quinoa appreciates during flowering) while the two occupy the plot as complementary staple crops. Keep them from shading quinoa too heavily.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
Bush dry beansA nitrogen-fixing legume is a classic partner and rotation crop for a hungry seed crop like quinoa, helping feed the soil; interplanting or rotating beans with quinoa is a sound, traditional Andean-style combination.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
AmaranthThe other great pseudo-grain, and a fine companion in a grain-and-greens patch: amaranth (warm-season) and quinoa (cool-season) share dual grain-and-leaf uses and similar culture, so growing them together rounds out the pseudo-grain harvest across the season.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
Keep apart
Beets and chardBeets, chard, and spinach are close relatives in the same family (Amaranthaceae) and share quinoa's leaf miners and downy mildew - avoid crowding them together and rotate quinoa away from where these grew to break shared pest and disease cycles.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.

Varieties · 5

Brightest Brilliant Rainbow90–130 days (typ. 110)

Tall plants topped by large branched seed heads in mixed pink, red, orange, gold, and purple.

ornamentalmulticolorgrainopen-pollinatedadaptable

A dazzling open-pollinated mix whose seed heads ripen in a rainbow of pink, red, orange, gold, cream, and purple, so a single planting is as ornamental as it is productive. Adaptable and widely grown by home gardeners for both grain and cut-flower-worthy color.

Cherry Vanilla90–120 days (typ. 105)

Plants with two-tone cream-to-cherry-pink seed heads and pale seed.

ornamentalpinkcreamgrainopen-pollinated

A beautiful selection with seed heads shading from soft cream to deep cherry-pink on the same plant, prized as much for its looks as its pale, mild grain. A reliable, attractive home garden quinoa.

Cochabamba (Bolivian Highland type)100–140 days (typ. 120)

Tall highland plants with large gold-to-tan seed heads of full-sized grain.

highlandheirloomgrainhigh-yieldcool-climate

A classic Bolivian highland heirloom type representing quinoa's Andean heartland, high-yielding and full-flavored in cool-summer and high-elevation gardens, though later to mature than short-season selections. A taste of traditional Andean quinoa.

Red Head90–125 days (typ. 110)

Vigorous plants topped with deep red to magenta seed heads.

redornamentalgrainopen-pollinated

A striking variety with deep brick-red to magenta seed heads and good grain yield, popular for its bold color in the garden and its pale, mild cooked seed. A dependable ornamental-edible quinoa.

Titicaca85–110 days (typ. 95)

Shorter, earlier, uniform plants with compact greenish-gold seed heads.

earlyshort-seasoncompactgrainlow-saponin

A modern Danish-bred short-season quinoa selected to mature quickly and evenly in cooler lowland climates, making it a top choice for northern and short-summer gardens where Andean types struggle to finish. Comparatively low-saponin and easy to clean.

Grow

Direct sow shallow into cool spring soil in full sun, thin to spacing, and keep it weeded while young; it is drought-tolerant and easy once established, wanting cool weather and disliking extreme heat.

Quinoa is refreshingly straightforward to grow if you match it to cool weather. Direct sow the small seed shallow, about a quarter to half an inch deep, into a firm, moist bed in full sun as early in spring as the soil can be worked - it is a cool-season crop that germinates fast in cool ground and does not want heat to start. Sow in defined rows so you can tell the seedlings (which look much like lamb's quarters) from weeds, then thin to roughly 8-14 inches apart so each plant can build a full head.

The main early task is weeding, because young quinoa grows slowly and competes poorly until it takes off; after that it is vigorous and largely self-sufficient. It is notably drought-tolerant once established (an Andean semi-arid heritage), though steady moisture during rapid growth sizes the seed head. Quinoa is self-pollinating, so even a small bed sets seed without block planting. The one region-specific decision is heat: because sustained high temperatures during flowering can sterilize the pollen, hot-summer gardeners should time the crop to bloom in cooler weather (an early sowing, or a cool-season fall crop in hot zones), while cool-summer and high-elevation gardens can simply sow in spring and let it run.

Care through the season

Weed while young, water through rapid growth then ease off as it ripens, shelter the bloom from extreme heat, and watch for downy mildew in humid weather and birds on the ripening heads.

Once quinoa is up and thinned, care is light. Keep it weeded until it shades the ground, give steady moisture through its rapid leafy growth and into flowering, then let it dry down as the seed hardens - too much water late just delays ripening. It is a light-to-moderate feeder; rich soil grows lush plants but overdoing nitrogen can flop tall heads. The critical window is flowering: protect the crop from sustained heat above about 90-95F, which can cause poor seed set, by timing the bloom for cooler weather and keeping plants watered through any hot spell.

The disease to know is downy mildew (a Peronospora), quinoa's main affliction in humid weather, showing as yellow leaf patches with grayish mold beneath - grow resistant varieties, give airflow, and avoid overhead watering late in the day. Aphids, flea beetles, and leaf miners (the same ones that visit its beet and spinach relatives) may appear but rarely threaten a healthy stand. As the heads ripen, birds become the main nuisance, so net small plots or harvest promptly. In a wet climate the last risk is the ripe seed sprouting right in the head after rain, so cut the crop as soon as the seed is hard.

Harvest

Cut when the leaves have dropped and the seed is hard, then thresh and winnow - and finish with quinoa's signature step, rinsing the seed until the water runs clear to wash off the bitter saponins.

Quinoa signals ripeness clearly: most of the leaves yellow and drop, the plant dries to gold or its varietal color, and the seed turns hard - you cannot dent it with a thumbnail, and it rubs free of the head when you run a hand down it. A light frost that helps dry the plant is fine. On a dry day, cut or strip the heads into a bag or onto a tarp; do not dawdle, because ripe quinoa both shatters (drops seed) and, in wet weather, can sprout right in the head.

Then comes the ancient two-step plus one. Thresh the dried heads by rubbing or flailing to knock the tiny seeds loose, and winnow the chaff away in a breeze or in front of a fan. The step unique to quinoa is the rinse: the seed's natural saponin coating is bitter and mildly soapy, so wash the clean seed in several changes of water (or soak and drain) until it stops foaming and the water runs clear, rubbing it between your hands as you go. Dry the rinsed seed again thoroughly before storing. 'Sweet' low-saponin varieties need much less rinsing, but a quick rinse before cooking is always wise.

Nutrition

A rare complete plant protein: gluten-free seeds with all nine essential amino acids plus fiber, iron, magnesium, and folate, and a bonus of nutritious (if oxalate-rich) edible leaves.

Quinoa earned its 'superfood' reputation honestly. It is one of the few plant foods offering a genuinely complete protein - it contains all nine essential amino acids in useful balance, including lysine, which most cereal grains lack - and it is naturally gluten-free, making it a valuable staple for those avoiding wheat. Beyond protein it delivers good fiber, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, manganese, and folate, plus antioxidants, all with a low-to-moderate glycemic response.

Its edible leaves add to the picture, eaten cooked like spinach and rich in vitamins and minerals - a nutritious green from the same plant, though, like their relatives spinach and chard, high in oxalates, so best cooked and in normal amounts. The one thing to remember on the seed side is the saponin coating: bitter and best rinsed off (it is also why unrinsed quinoa can taste soapy). With a simple rinse, quinoa is a wholesome, protein-dense, gluten-free grain and one of the highest-value crops a home gardener can grow and eat.

History

Domesticated around Lake Titicaca in the Andes thousands of years ago, quinoa was a sacred staple of the Inca (the 'mother grain'), suppressed under Spanish rule, and revived into a global health food.

Quinoa was domesticated high in the Andes - around Lake Titicaca in present-day Peru and Bolivia - some three to five thousand years ago, from wild goosefoot ancestors related to lamb's quarters. For the Inca and earlier Andean peoples it was a foundational crop, revered as chisaya mama, the 'mother grain,' woven into agriculture and ritual alongside potatoes and maize, and prized for thriving at altitudes and in cold, thin-soiled conditions where little else would grow.

After the Spanish conquest, quinoa was suppressed and marginalized - partly for its role in Indigenous religious practice - in favor of European cereals, and it survived mainly as a peasant and highland crop for centuries. Its modern revival began in the late twentieth century as its exceptional nutrition drew global attention, culminating in the United Nations declaring 2013 the 'International Year of Quinoa.' That popularity has been double-edged for Andean growers, but for gardeners worldwide quinoa has become both a rewarding home grain and a living link to one of the great agricultural traditions of the Americas.

Growing across climates

A cool-season grain at its best in cool-summer, short-season, and high-elevation gardens; heat at flowering is its main limit, so hot regions grow it in the cool shoulder seasons.

Quinoa is fundamentally a cool-season, high-altitude crop, and matching it to cool weather is the whole game. Cool-summer, short-season, and high-elevation gardens (the Pacific Northwest, mountain regions, the northern tier, zones 3-7) are its sweet spot - sow in spring and enjoy the warm-day, cool-night conditions it evolved for, and it grows and ripens beautifully. Zones 7-8: grow it too, but sow early so it flowers before the hottest weather. Hot zones 9-10: summer heat causes flower sterility and poor seed set, so grow quinoa as a cool-season fall or winter crop, sown in fall to flower and fill in the cool months and harvested before summer heat arrives.

Its established drought tolerance and frost-hardy seedlings (down to around 25F) make it forgiving at the cool end, while its intolerance of prolonged heat and high humidity (which also brings downy mildew) defines the warm end. In short: give quinoa cool weather during flowering, whatever season that falls in, and it will reward you almost anywhere.

Troubleshooting

Empty or poorly filled heads usually mean heat at flowering; bitter cooked seed means it was not rinsed; yellow-and-gray leaves are downy mildew; sprouting heads mean rain on ripe seed harvested too late.

Heads flower but set little or no seed: sustained heat (above about 90-95F) during flowering sterilizes the pollen - time the bloom for cooler weather, keep plants watered in heat, or grow quinoa as a cool-season crop in hot zones. Cooked quinoa tastes bitter or soapy: the saponin coating was not washed off - rinse or soak the seed until the water runs clear and no longer foams before cooking. Yellow patches on leaves with grayish mold underneath: downy mildew, worst in humid weather - grow resistant varieties, improve airflow, and avoid wetting the foliage late in the day. Ripe seed sprouting right in the head: rain fell on dead-ripe grain - harvest promptly once the seed is hard, especially in wet climates. Thin, weedy, low-yielding plants: quinoa grows slowly when young and competes poorly - thin to spacing and keep it well weeded until it takes off. Seedlings hard to tell from weeds: plant in defined rows; quinoa seedlings closely resemble their weedy relative lamb's quarters. Small holes in young leaves: flea beetles or leaf miners from its beet and spinach relatives - usually cosmetic on a vigorous plant.

Grower tips

No grower tips for Quinoa yet. Yours could be the first.

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