Greek Grain Berry Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Feta

From the garden

• 1¼ cups whole grain berries (wheat, barley, rye, or spelt-type), rinsed · rice, quinoa, sorghum, or buckwheat also work; see step 1 for timing
• 2 medium cucumbers, seeded if large, diced
• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, diced
• ½ medium red onion, very thinly sliced
• ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• ¼ cup fresh mint, chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped · or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1 clove garlic, grated

From the pantry

• 6 oz feta, crumbled
• ½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and halved
• 1 can canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed (optional)
• ⅓ cup olive oil
• 1 lemon · juiced, about 3 tablespoons
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Cook the grain berries in a big pot of well-salted boiling water, like pasta, until tender and chewy with no chalky center: 45–60 minutes for wheat, barley, rye, and spelt-type berries (closer to 35 if soaked overnight), 40–50 for sorghum, 15–20 for rice or quinoa, and 12–15 for buckwheat. Rinse homegrown quinoa in a fine sieve until the water runs clear and stops foaming, or its saponin coating will taste soapy. Drain well.
2. While the grains cook, whisk the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, oregano, a half teaspoon of salt, and plenty of pepper in a large bowl. Add the sliced red onion to the dressing and let it soften and mellow while everything else comes together.
3. Tip the hot, drained grains into the bowl with the dressing and toss well. Warm grains soak up the dressing in a way cold ones never do. Let them cool 10 minutes, tossing once or twice.
4. Add the cucumber, tomato, olives, chickpeas if using, parsley, and mint, and toss gently. Taste and correct with salt, pepper, or another squeeze of lemon; grains need more seasoning than you think.
5. Scatter the feta over the top and serve at room temperature or lightly chilled. Grilled chicken, lamb, or a fried egg on the side turns it into a bigger dinner.