Lemongrass

Cymbopogon citratus · Poaceae
Herb Perennial (grown as annual) Grass CulinaryHerb
Introduced - native to tropical Asia

Culinary lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus/flexuosus) is safe as food and tea. The leaf blades have fine sharp edges that can nick skin - handle with care. Do not confuse with citronella grass (C. nardus/winterianus), a related non-culinary plant grown for insect-repellent oil. Lemongrass is listed as toxic to cats, dogs and horses - vomiting and GI upset, and in cats the indigestible leaf fiber can obstruct - and lemongrass essential oil should not be applied to or diffused around cats.

Overview

A fast, fragrant tropical grass behind Southeast Asian cooking - perennial in frost-free zones, grown as an annual (or dug and wintered indoors) elsewhere, and famously easy to start from a grocery-store stalk.

Lemongrass is the tall, arching, citrus-scented grass at the heart of Thai, Vietnamese, and wider Southeast Asian cooking - the source of the bright lemon fragrance in tom yum, curries, and countless marinades. It grows fast into a big clumping fountain of blades 3-6 feet tall, thrives on heat, moisture, and rich soil, and is one of the most rewarding, low-trouble herbs you can grow.

Two things make it easy to place. First, its climate: lemongrass is a tender tropical perennial, hardy and permanent only in zones 9-11; everywhere colder it's grown as a fast warm-season annual, or dug up and overwintered indoors. Second, its start: you can grow a whole clump from a single grocery-store stalk rooted in a glass of water - the cheapest, most satisfying propagation trick in the herb garden (see Propagation).

At a glance

Sun
Full sun
Water
High
Spacing
24–48 in (typ. 36)
Mature height
24–72 in (typ. 48)
Start by
Transplant · Cuttings · Division
Frost
Tender
Spread
24–48 in (typ. 36)
Soil
Consistently moist
Temperature
Damaged below 30°F · struggles above 105°F

When to plant

Apr 17 – May 22
Primary TransplantSpring
Set out rooted stalks, divisions, or plants after all frost danger passes and nights are warm. Grown as an annual here (or dug and overwintered indoors) - it's tender and heat-loving, so don't rush it out into cold soil.

Zone 7a typical frost: last Apr 10 · first Oct 25 (spring frost runs Mar 27–Apr 24 in a typical spread of years)

Life stages

  1. Rooting & establishing day 0–40 from sowing
    • Keep it warm and consistently moist to root inevery 3 d
      Whether from a rooted grocery stalk, a division, or a nursery plant, lemongrass needs warmth and steady moisture to establish - it's a tropical grass. Don't let it dry out; unlike Mediterranean herbs, lemongrass likes rich, moist soil.
    • Wait for real warmth before setting out
      Lemongrass is frost-tender and heat-loving; set plants out only after all frost has passed and nights are warm, or it sulks and stalls.
    Cold stall - growth stops in chilly weather (it wants heat)Rotting base from cold, wet soil before it's rooted
  2. Clumping up day 40–110 from sowing
    • Water generously through the growing seasonevery 2 d
      This is a thirsty tropical grass - give it plenty of water and never let it dry out fully in heat; a clump can drink a lot in summer.
    • Feed regularly - it's a hungry grassevery 21 d
      Lemongrass responds to nitrogen. A balanced feed every few weeks (or rich soil) drives fast, lush clumping and fatter stalks.
    Slow bulking in cool summers (it needs sustained heat)Spider mites in hot, dry spells (especially on stressed or indoor plants)
  3. Stalk harvest day 100–210 from sowing
    • Cut whole stalks once they're pencil-to-thumb thickevery 7 d
      Harvest outer stalks when the swollen base reaches about a half-inch or more across. Cut or twist the whole stalk off at the soil line; the fragrant, tender lower few inches of the base is the culinary part. Keep taking outer stalks and the clump keeps producing.
    • Keep watering while harvesting
      Steady moisture through harvest keeps new stalks coming and the base tender.
    Frost forecast in cold zones (harvest the whole clump, or dig and pot it, before frost kills it)Overgrown, woody outer stalks (still fine for tea and infusing; use the tender inner ones for eating)
  4. Winter (frost-free zones) / dig & store Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec (yearly)
    • Perennial in zones 9+; dig and overwinter it elsewhere
      In zones 9-11 lemongrass is a returning perennial - the clump rests over winter and regrows and expands each spring; mulch the crown in zone 8-9 cold snaps. In colder zones, before frost, dig the clump (or a division), pot it, and overwinter it in a bright indoor spot, or simply regrow from a fresh stalk next spring.
    • Water sparingly on a resting or indoor plant
      A cool, resting, or indoor lemongrass needs much less water - ease off to avoid rotting the crown over winter.
    Crown rot from a cold, wet, resting clumpSpider mites and dry, browning tips on indoor winter plants in dry heat

Harvest

Style
Repeated picking
Typical yield
10–80 stalks (typ. 30)
By weight
16–160 oz (typ. 48)
First production
0–1 yrs (typ. 0)
It's ready when
  • Outer stalks with a swollen base about a half-inch or more across
  • Firm, fragrant, pale bulbous lower stalk - the tender inner base is the culinary part
  • A well-fed clump keeps sending up new stalks all season
What you harvest
Stalkmain crop
Cooked · Fresh · Infused · Paste
Harvested whole; the tender, fragrant lower few inches of the base is used in cooking (minced, pounded, or bruised), while tougher upper stalks are bruised and steeped, then removed.
Leaf
Tea · Infused
The strappy leaf blades are too fibrous to eat but make an excellent lemongrass tea and infusion; the blade edges are sharp - handle carefully.

Watch out for

Root Rot Medium DiseaseJan, Feb, Mar, Nov, Dec

Root rot is not one organism but a group of soil fungi and water molds - Pythium, Phytophthora, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia and others - that sit harmlessly in most soils and only turn destructive when the ground stays saturated. Waterlogged soil drives the air out, the roots suffocate, and the weakened tissue is invaded and goes soft, brown, and stringy. Because the damage is underground you usually see it first as something that looks like drought: wilting, yellowing, stunting, a plant that does not respond to being watered. Overwatering, heavy compacted ground, a low spot that collects runoff, a pot with no drainage or a saucer left standing full, and cold wet soil in winter are the usual causes. Once roots have actually rotted there is no cure - this is a problem you prevent rather than treat.

Watch for: Wilting in the middle of the day on a plant whose soil is damp - the classic tell, and the reason people water a rotting plant and finish it off. Leaves yellowing from the bottom up, dull off-color foliage, and growth that stalls for no visible reason. Whole shoots, or one side of the plant, collapsing while the rest still looks fine. Soft, dark, or mushy tissue at the base of the stem or at the crown, sometimes with a sour smell. Lift a failing plant and look at the roots: healthy ones are firm and pale, rotted ones are brown or black and slimy, and the outer layer slips off between your fingers leaving a thread of core behind. Seedlings that topple over at soil level are the same problem, called damping-off.

Prevent: Drainage is the whole defense. Match the plant to the site first - something that wants sharp drainage will not survive heavy clay or a low, water-collecting spot however well you tend it. Where the ground is heavy, plant on a raised bed, berm, or slope, or grow in a container. Set plants at the depth they were already growing, since burying the crown or the root flare is a common cause of rot, and keep mulch pulled back a few inches from the stem base instead of piled against it. Water the soil rather than the calendar: check that the top inch or two is dry before watering again, cut back hard in cool weather and winter dormancy, and never leave a pot standing in a full saucer. Do not plant or dig in soggy ground, and go easy on rich amendments for plants that want it lean. Rotate annual crops, and start with clean healthy plants and fresh mix.

Treat: There is no cure for tissue that has already rotted, so act on the conditions rather than looking for a spray. Stop watering at once and fix the drainage - open up compacted soil, or move the plant to a raised, sharply drained position or a container. Lift a badly affected plant, cut away every soft dark root and rotted section with a clean blade back to firm pale tissue, and replant only the healthy parts into fresh free-draining soil or mix. Often the better move is to give up on the plant and save its offspring instead: cuttings, offsets, or divisions taken from firm healthy growth root readily and give you a clean start. Bin the rotted material rather than composting it, and correct the drainage before you replant, because the rot comes straight back in the same wet spot.

Water generously in warm growth but cut back sharply on cool, resting, or indoor winter plants, and never let a dormant clump sit cold and soggy. Firm divisions salvaged from a rotting clump will restart it - keep a recovering plant warmer and drier.

Aphids Low PestApr, May, Jun

Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.

Watch for: Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.

Prevent: Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.

Treat: Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.

Lemongrass's aromatic oils make it an unattractive host; aphids here are uncommon and rarely serious.

Spider Mites Low PestJan, Feb, Jun, Jul, Aug, Dec

Spider mites are not insects but tiny sap-feeding arachnids, smaller than a grain of salt, and you almost always notice the damage before you notice them. They live on the undersides of leaves and drain the cells one at a time, which is why the leaf goes finely stippled with pale dots before it bronzes and dries. They breed explosively in hot, dry, dusty, still air - a generation can pass in a week at high temperature - so a barely visible population becomes a webbed, bronzed plant within a fortnight. Drought-stressed plants and plants wintered indoors in dry heated air are the classic hosts. Broad-spectrum insecticides make matters worse rather than better, because they kill the predatory mites and lady beetles that normally hold mites in check.

Watch for: Fine pale stippling or speckling across the upper leaf surface, as though the color had been sandblasted out of it, and later a dull bronze or rusty cast over the whole leaf. Delicate webbing across leaf joints, shoot tips, and undersides - that comes with a heavy infestation and means you caught it late. Leaves that dry, curl, and drop early while the plant looks thirsty no matter how much you water it. Hold a leaf over a sheet of white paper and tap it: the specks that fall and then start walking are mites. With a hand lens, look on the undersides for the mites themselves, pale or reddish, and their round translucent eggs. Damage that shows up first on the hottest, dustiest, most sheltered side of a plant, or on a pot sitting near a radiator indoors.

Prevent: Do not let plants get drought-stressed - that is the single strongest trigger, and a plant watered steadily through heat is far less likely to have a mite problem at all. Hose the foliage down, undersides included, during hot dry spells: it knocks mites off, washes away the dust they thrive in, and raises the humidity around the plant for a while. Indoors and under cover, keep the air from going hot, dry, and stagnant, wipe or rinse the leaves occasionally, and keep pots away from radiators and heating vents. Inspect any plant carefully before you bring it indoors for winter or set it among others, since mites almost always arrive on something else. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides: they wipe out the predatory mites, lacewings, and lady beetles that do most of this work for you, and reliably leave you with a worse outbreak than you started with.

Treat: Start with water. A strong jet aimed at the leaf undersides, repeated every few days for a couple of weeks, knocks populations down and breaks the cycle - on many plants that alone ends it. On anything that regrows quickly, shearing back badly infested growth resets the plant to clean foliage. If it keeps building, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the undersides where the mites actually live, and repeat every five to seven days for three rounds: contact sprays do not kill the eggs, so a single application always fails. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating - follow the label and observe its pre-harvest interval on anything you eat. Predatory mites are an effective release in a greenhouse or on an indoor plant. Above all, correct the heat, dust, and drought stress that caused it, or the mites simply come back.

Worst on plants overwintered indoors in dry heat. Keep the clump well watered and raise humidity around indoor winter plants.

Good & bad neighbors

Plant nearby
TomatoLemongrass's citral-rich oils are traditionally credited with repelling mosquitoes and some insect pests, so a clump near vegetables is thought to help; it also draws no pests of its own.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
PepperShares the heat and moisture peppers enjoy, and the aromatic grass is reputed to deter some insects; a good large-clump border for a warm-season bed.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
CilantroA kitchen-garden pairing more than a proven one - the two are staples of the same Southeast Asian cooking and grow happily near each other in warm, rich soil.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
BasilBoth aromatic, heat-loving herbs of Southeast Asian cuisine; their scents are traditionally said to help mask crops from pests. A convenient, harmless pairing.Traditional pairing — evidence is thin.
Keep apart

Varieties · 2

East Indian LemongrassZones 3a–11b

Taller, finer clump with narrower blades and reddish-tinged, more slender stalk bases.

culinaryoilteaseed-grownCymbopogon flexuosus

Also called Cochin or Malabar grass (Cymbopogon flexuosus): thinner, redder-based stalks and a strong citral content that made it the classic source of commercial lemongrass oil. Fully usable in cooking and tea, and (unlike West Indian) it can be grown from seed, though its stalks are less plump for eating. A returning perennial in zones 9-11 and a fast warm-season annual everywhere colder.

West Indian LemongrassZones 3a–11b

Dense clump of arching blue-green blades with swollen, tender, pale bulbous stalk bases.

culinarycookingthick-stalkCymbopogon citratus

The main culinary lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and the one sold in grocery and Asian markets: fatter, more tender stalks with a bold lemon flavor, ideal for Southeast Asian cooking, pastes, and tea. Rarely flowers or sets seed in cultivation, so it's grown from stalks and divisions. This is the one to grow for the kitchen. A returning perennial in zones 9-11 and a fast warm-season annual (or a pot moved indoors) everywhere colder.

Grow

Start from a rooted grocery stalk, a division, or a plant; give it full sun, heat, rich moist soil, and plenty of water - the opposite of a dry Mediterranean herb.

Lemongrass wants what tropical grasses want: full sun, heat, rich soil, and steady moisture. This is the key difference from Mediterranean herbs like sage and rosemary - lemongrass is thirsty and hungry, not lean and dry, so give it generous water and regular feeding for the fat, tender stalks you're after. Set plants out only after all frost has passed and nights are warm; cold soil stalls it.

You can start it three easy ways: root a grocery stalk in water (below), lift a division from an existing clump, or buy a nursery plant. Space plants about 2-3 feet apart - a single clump gets big. It grows beautifully in a large pot, which is the standard approach in cold climates because you can move it indoors for winter. Give it room, water, warmth, and food, and it bulks up remarkably fast in a single season.

One caution when buying: nurseries sometimes sell citronella grass (Cymbopogon nardus / C. winterianus) as lemongrass. It looks much the same in a pot - a big clump, often with reddish stems - but it is coarser, grown for insect-repellent oil, and not used for cooking. Buy West Indian or East Indian lemongrass for the kitchen, and if a plant is simply labelled 'lemongrass' at a garden center, check the species on the tag.

Care

Water generously, feed regularly, and mostly get out of its way - then dig and overwinter it (or regrow from a stalk) in frost zones.

Lemongrass care is refreshingly simple: water a lot and feed well. It's a fast, thirsty, hungry grass, so keep the soil moist (especially potted plants and in heat) and give it nitrogen through the growing season for lush, fat stalks. It has few pests - its own lemony oils repel many insects - so beyond watching for spider mites on stressed or indoor plants, there's little to fight.

The real seasonal job is the winter plan, set by your climate. In zones 9-11, lemongrass is a permanent perennial that regrows and expands each spring - just cut back frost-nipped or tatty foliage and divide the clump every few years when it gets crowded. In colder zones, before the first frost, either dig the whole clump (or a division), pot it, and keep it in a bright indoor spot over winter, or accept it as an annual and start fresh from a stalk each spring. Either way it's easy - lemongrass is forgiving.

Harvest

Harvest whole stalks once the base swells to a half-inch or more - twist or cut them off at the soil line, and the clump keeps producing all season.

You harvest lemongrass as whole stalks, not by snipping leaves. Once a stalk's base has swollen to about a half-inch or more across (pencil-to-thumb thick), take it from the outside of the clump: cut or firmly twist and pull the whole stalk off right at the soil line. The prized culinary part is the tender, fragrant, pale lower few inches of the base - that's what you mince, pound, or bruise for cooking; the tougher green upper stalk and strappy leaves are bruised and steeped for tea or infusions, then removed.

Keep taking outer stalks and a healthy clump keeps sending up new ones through the whole warm season - a single plant produces far more than most kitchens use. In frost zones, do a big final harvest (and take a division to overwinter) before the first frost, which ends the plant's outdoor season. Trim off the sharp-edged leaf blades and root ends, peel the tough outer layers, and you're left with the aromatic heart.

Storage

Stalks keep weeks in the fridge and freeze superbly (the best long-term option); the leaves dry into an excellent tea.

Lemongrass stores unusually well. Whole trimmed stalks keep two to three weeks in the fridge wrapped in a bag, and they freeze beautifully - the single best way to keep a big harvest. Freeze stalks whole in a bag, or (even better) mince or slice the tender bases first and freeze in portions, or blitz them into a paste with a little oil and freeze in cubes, ready to drop straight into a curry or soup. Frozen lemongrass keeps its flavor for months.

The strappy leaf blades dry into an excellent tea: cut, dry them in a warm, airy, shaded spot until crisp, and store them for a caffeine-free citrus infusion all winter. Because a single clump yields so heavily, freezing the stalk bases and drying the leaves lets one summer's plant flavor your cooking and your teapot right through the cold months.

Propagation & seed saving

The garden's best cheap trick: root a grocery-store lemongrass stalk in a glass of water in a week or two, plant it, and grow a whole clump - plus easy division of established plants.

Lemongrass has one of the most satisfying propagation stories in the herb world: you can grow an entire plant from a stalk bought at the grocery store. Pick fresh, plump stalks with the base intact (Asian markets sell them cheaply, often 6-10 to a bunch), trim the tops, and stand the bases in a glass of water on a warm, bright windowsill. Change the water daily, and within a week or two you'll see white roots emerge; after two to three weeks the roots are strong enough to pot up. Plant the rooted stalk, keep it warm and watered, and it grows into a full clump - turning a couple of dollars of produce into a summer's supply, or a permanent plant in warm zones.

Once you have a plant, division is just as easy: lift an established clump in spring and pull or cut it into sections, each with roots and a few stalks, and replant. This is how you multiply your stock, renew a crowded clump, and - crucially in cold climates - overwinter a division indoors to restart next year. Because lemongrass roots and divides so willingly, one rooted grocery stalk really can be all the lemongrass you ever buy.

Nutrition

Used in flavoring amounts, so a modest nutritional contributor, but its aromatic oils (chiefly citral) carry antioxidant activity, and the tea is a pleasant, calorie-free drink.

Lemongrass is used in small flavoring amounts - minced into a dish or steeped as tea - so it's a flavor booster rather than a dietary staple. The stalk supplies trace minerals (manganese, potassium, iron, folate) and small amounts of antioxidants, and its aromatic oils, dominated by citral (the compound behind its lemon scent), carry antioxidant and antimicrobial activity in laboratory studies.

Its more everyday health role is as a caffeine-free tea - refreshing, calorie-free, and traditionally drunk to soothe digestion and relax. As with most culinary herbs, the honest framing is that lemongrass adds real flavor and a little antioxidant value to food and drink, making light, healthy cooking more appealing, rather than being a nutritional powerhouse in the quantities you actually use.

In the kitchen

The bright citrus soul of Southeast Asian cooking: tom yum, curries, marinades, and stir-fries - mince the tender base, or bruise whole stalks to infuse and remove.

Lemongrass gives Southeast Asian cooking its unmistakable bright, clean, floral-lemon note. It's essential to Thai tom yum and tom kha soups, curry pastes, Vietnamese marinades and grilled meats, and countless stir-fries, broths, and noodle dishes, and it pairs beautifully with coconut milk, chili, ginger, garlic, and lime. Its flavor is lemony without the acidity, adding fragrance and depth rather than sourness.

Two techniques cover almost everything. To eat it, use only the tender lower few inches of the stalk: peel off the tough outer layers, then finely mince or pound the pale heart into curry pastes and marinades. To infuse it, bruise a whole stalk with the back of a knife to release the oils, drop it into soups, broths, poaching liquids, or syrups, and fish it out before serving (the whole stalk is too fibrous to eat). The leaves make lemongrass tea and flavor rice and broths. Fresh, frozen, or as paste, a little goes a long way.

Traditional & historical uses

A strong folk-medicine tradition across Asia, Africa, and the Caribbean - notably as 'fever grass' tea for digestion, colds, and calm - with modest modern lab support for its citral-rich oil.

This section records how people have traditionally used this plant, and what is known about the risks. It is history and general information — not medical advice, and not a recommendation to treat anything. Plants are not dosed like medicines, some interact with prescriptions, and some are harmful in ways that are not obvious. Talk to a clinician before using any plant medicinally.

Lemongrass has a deep and genuine traditional-medicine record, especially as a tea. Across South and Southeast Asia, Africa, and the Caribbean - where it's tellingly called 'fever grass' - lemongrass tea has long been drunk to ease digestion and stomach upset, to help bring down fevers and soothe colds and coughs, and as a calming, relaxing drink to relieve stress and aid sleep. In Ayurvedic and other traditional systems it's used for its aromatic, warming, digestive properties, and the essential oil is used topically and as an insect repellent (its close relative, citronella grass, is the classic mosquito-repellent species). Never apply or diffuse that oil around cats, which lack the liver enzymes to clear its terpenes.

Modern research is preliminary but broadly consistent with tradition: lemongrass oil and its main compound citral show antioxidant, antimicrobial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity in the lab, and small studies have looked at lemongrass tea for digestion and mild anxiety. The honest line: lemongrass is a flavorful, healthful herb and a pleasant, safe tea with a rich traditional record, rather than a proven drug. The concentrated essential oil is potent and for topical/aromatic use, not casual internal use; medicinal quantities of the extract are best approached with care in pregnancy. As food and tea, it's gentle and time-honored.

History

A tropical Asian grass carried along trade and colonial routes across the tropics - into Southeast Asian kitchens, Caribbean 'fever grass' tea, and the global essential-oil trade.

Lemongrass originated in the tropical grasslands of South and Southeast Asia, where it has flavored food and medicine for thousands of years and became a cornerstone of the region's cuisines. Its two culinary species - West Indian lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and East Indian lemongrass (C. flexuosus) - and their aromatic relatives spread widely along ancient trade routes and, later, European colonial networks, which carried the grass throughout the tropics.

That spread explains its many homes and names: the 'West Indian' species picked up its name from its naturalization across the Caribbean, where lemongrass tea became the beloved home remedy 'fever grass.' East Indian lemongrass (also called Cochin or Malabar grass) became a major source of lemongrass oil and citral for the perfume, flavoring, and soap industries. Today lemongrass grows across warm regions worldwide - a Southeast Asian native that became a global kitchen, teacup, and essential-oil staple.

Growing across climates

A tender tropical grass: a permanent perennial only in frost-free zones 9-11, and a fast warm-season annual (or dig-and-store container plant) everywhere colder.

Lemongrass's tenderness sets the whole approach. Zones 9-11: a true perennial - plant it once and the clump returns and expands every spring, growing into a large fountain of grass; cut back frost-nipped foliage, keep it watered and fed, and divide it every few years. Mulch the crown for the occasional cold snap in zone 8b-9. Zones 6-8: grown as a fast warm-season annual - it bulks up impressively in a single hot summer from a rooted stalk or plant set out after frost; before the first fall frost, either harvest it all or dig a division to overwinter indoors. Zones 3-5: the same annual approach, ideally in a large pot that can be started early in warmth and moved indoors before frost to keep as a houseplant or restart from division each year. Everywhere, the constants are heat, sun, rich soil, and generous water - and, north of zone 9, a plan to escape the frost.

Troubleshooting

Killed by frost is expected (it's tender); slow growth means too cool; yellowing/rot means the resting or potted plant is too wet and cold; woody stalks are still fine for tea.

Died at frost: normal and expected - lemongrass is tropical and tender; grow it as an annual and overwinter a dug division or potted clump indoors. Slow, stunted growth: it's too cool - lemongrass needs sustained heat, sun, water, and feeding to bulk up; a cool summer or a cold, shady spot holds it back. Yellowing, browning, or a rotting base: usually cold, wet conditions - especially on a resting or indoor winter plant that's been overwatered - or poor drainage; ease off water and improve drainage. Thin, spindly stalks: too little sun, food, or water - feed and water more, and give full sun. Tough, woody outer stalks: just older growth - use the tender inner stalks for cooking and bruise the woody ones for tea and infusing. Fine stippling and webbing, mostly indoors: spider mites in dry heat - rinse the foliage and raise humidity. Nicked fingers: the leaf blades have sharp edges - wear gloves when handling and dividing.

Grower tips

No grower tips for Lemongrass yet. Yours could be the first.

Connection interrupted

Reconnecting to GrowSomeFood

Keep this page open. We are trying to restore your garden session.

Attempt of . Retrying automatically.

Still offline

Could not reconnect

Your phone may have switched networks or gone to sleep. Try again when the signal is steady.

Session expired

Reload to continue

This garden session is no longer available on the server. Reloading will start a fresh session.