Roman Peas with Prosciutto

From the garden

• 3 cups shelled peas · from about 3 lb of pods, or frozen
• 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
• 2 tbsp fresh mint or flat-leaf parsley, torn (optional)

From the pantry

• 4 oz pancetta or prosciutto ends, cut into small dice · bacon works, though it brings a smoke the Roman version does not have
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• ½ cup chicken stock · plain water is traditional and works
• salt · go carefully, the pork is already salty
• black pepper

1. Warm the olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-low heat and cook the pancetta 5–6 minutes, until the fat has run and the edges take color.
2. Add the onion and cook gently 6–8 minutes, until soft and sweet but not browned. This unhurried start is what separates the dish from peas boiled in a pan.
3. Stir in the peas and the stock, add a small pinch of salt, and bring to a bare simmer. Cover and cook 8–12 minutes: peas that sat too long on the vine want the longer end, while ones picked this morning may be done in five.
4. Uncover, raise the heat, and boil off most of the liquid, 2–3 minutes, until what remains glosses the peas rather than pooling around them.
5. Taste for salt, grind over black pepper, scatter the herbs, and serve warm beside roast lamb, chicken, or a plate of eggs.