Ghanaian Red Red Bean Stew

From the garden

• 1½ cups black-eyed peas (any southern pea), rinsed and picked over · freshly shelled garden peas cook in about half the time
• 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
• 1½ lb ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped
• 1 habanero or other hot pepper, stemmed and minced · start with half of one if you are unsure of the heat
• 4 cloves garlic, minced

From the pantry

• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• ⅓ cup vegetable oil · red palm oil is the traditional choice and worth seeking out
• 1 tsp smoked paprika · stands in for the deep red color palm oil would give
• 1½ cups long-grain rice · steamed, for serving
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Simmer the peas in 4 cups of unsalted water until tender but still whole, 45–55 minutes for dried peas and 20–25 for freshly shelled. Drain, saving a cup of the cooking liquid.
2. Warm the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat and cook the onions with a good pinch of salt 12–15 minutes, until deeply soft and browning at the edges. That browning is the backbone of the stew.
3. Stir in the garlic, ginger, hot pepper, and tomato paste and cook 2 minutes, until the paste darkens a shade. Add the tomatoes and smoked paprika and simmer 15 minutes, until thick, glossy, and beginning to release oil.
4. Fold in the drained peas with a splash of their liquid and simmer 10–15 minutes, until the sauce clings and the peas have taken its color. Cook the rice while the stew finishes.
5. Season firmly with salt and plenty of black pepper and rest 10 minutes off the heat before serving over the rice. Fried ripe plantain is the traditional partner and worth the detour if you can find one.