Sicilian Caponata Pasta

From the garden

• 2 medium eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped
• ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, torn

From the pantry

• 3 stalks celery, sliced
• ½ cup green olives, pitted and roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp capers, drained
• 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tbsp sugar
• ⅓ cup olive oil · divided
• 12 oz rigatoni or penne
• ¼ cup grated parmesan (optional) · not traditional with caponata, but good
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Heat half the olive oil in a wide, deep skillet over medium-high. Fry the eggplant cubes in two batches with a pinch of salt, turning occasionally, until deeply browned and creamy inside, 8–10 minutes per batch. Set aside on a plate. Browned, not steamed, eggplant is the soul of caponata.
2. Add the remaining oil and cook the onion and celery over medium heat 6–8 minutes, until softened but with the celery keeping a little crunch.
3. Add the tomatoes, olives, and capers and simmer 8–10 minutes until the tomatoes break down into a chunky sauce.
4. Stir in the vinegar and sugar, return the eggplant, and simmer gently 5 minutes so the agrodolce soaks in. Taste. It should land boldly sweet-and-sour; adjust vinegar, sugar, and salt until it does. Off the heat, fold in the basil.
5. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in well-salted water until al dente, reserving a cup of the cooking water before draining.
6. Toss the pasta with the caponata, loosening with splashes of pasta water until the sauce clings. Serve with black pepper and parmesan if you like.