North Indian Bhindi Masala

From the garden

• 1½ lb fresh okra, stemmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
• 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced
• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 hot green chiles, slit lengthwise
• ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

From the pantry

• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, minced
• 4 tbsp neutral oil · divided; okra wants a hot, generous pan
• 1½ tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp chili powder · or ground cayenne for a cleaner heat
• 1 lemon · juice only, added off the heat
• 1½ cups long-grain rice · cooked, for serving
• salt · to taste

1. Wipe every pod completely dry before trimming and cutting, and do not rinse the okra once it is cut. Dry pods and a hot, uncrowded pan are the entire defense against sliminess.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wide skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Add the okra in one layer and fry 8–10 minutes, tossing only every couple of minutes, until browned at the edges and no longer sticky. Tip onto a plate.
3. Add the remaining oil and the cumin to the empty pan, wait for the cumin to sizzle and smell toasted, then cook the onions and green chiles over medium heat 6–7 minutes, until the onion edges catch color.
4. Stir in the garlic, ginger, and chili powder for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes and a good pinch of salt. Cook 5–6 minutes, pressing the tomatoes down, until they collapse into a thick masala that clings to the onions.
5. Return the okra and fold gently, cooking 2 minutes just to coat. Stirring hard at this point breaks the pods open and brings the ropiness straight back, so use a light hand.
6. Finish off the heat with the lemon juice and cilantro, taste for salt, and serve hot with rice or warm flatbread.