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Sundew
The jewel of the bog: tiny rosettes of tentacled leaves beaded with glistening, sticky 'dew' that traps small insects. Widely native, forgiving, and beautiful up close - and a superb living control for household fungus gnats.
Safety notes Grown as a tiny ornamental curiosity, not a food - the sticky 'dew' is a digestive glue for catching gnats, not something to taste. Sundews are harmless to touch (the dew is merely sticky) and safe around children and pets. Historically some species were used in folk remedies, but that is history, not a recommendation - grow them to watch, and do not feed them human food, which harms the delicate leaves.
Overview
Sundews (Drosera) are the sparkling jewels of the carnivorous world. Each small leaf is covered in tentacles tipped with a droplet of clear, sticky 'dew' that glistens in the sun and works as living flypaper: a small insect lands, sticks fast, and the leaf slowly curls its tentacles around the prey to digest it. Like all carnivores, sundews do this to survive in nutrient-poor, acidic, wet ground where roots alone can't find enough nitrogen - so they catch it from the air, gnat by gnat.
Quick facts
- Sprouts in
- 35 daysRange: 21–60 days
- Soil temperature
- 75 °FRange: 68–82 °F
- Height
- 3 inRange: 1–12 in
- Spread
- 3 inRange: 1–6 in
- Cold
- Takes hard frostdamaged below -40°F
- Heat
- Struggles above 95°F
- Life cycle
- Perennial, lives about 8 years
- Self-sows
- Yes, expect volunteers
- Soil
- Tolerates wet soil
- Water
- High
- Plant spacing
- 3 inRange: 1–6 in
When to plant
Nothing is open today. Spring transplanting opens 6 months, Apr 10 to Jun 9.
- Transplant Apr 10 – Jun 9 Opens in 172 daysAbout at to 9 weeks after your last frost (Apr 10 here)Set out nursery plants or divisions into a full-sun bog planter or peat-sand bog as growth resumes; choose species to suit your climate (hardy temperate vs subtropical). Never plant into garden soil.
Frost here: last around Apr 10 (Mar 27 to Apr 24 most years), first around Oct 25. Zone averages, your own yard may run a week or two either way.
Life stages
Establish, grow, repeat
Getting established and returning each season are different parts of the story.
Stage 1 of 4 · Getting established
Settling into the bog
Day 0 to 45 after transplanting
Care at this stage
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Only distilled, rain, or RO water - keep it wet
Sundews are bog plants that must never dry out. Stand the pot in a tray of distilled, rain, or reverse-osmosis water so the peat-sand medium stays constantly wet. Tap, spring, softened, and mineral water build up salts that kill these tiny, sensitive plants quickly. This is the most important rule.
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NEVER fertilize or use potting soil
Sundews feed on insects because their bog soil is starved of nutrients. Fertilizer, compost, and potting soil burn and kill them. Pot only in pure peat moss with washed silica sand or perlite. Bright light and pure water, not feeding, keep them happy.
Months are typical seasonal windows; climate, variety, and plant age can shift them.
Watch out for
4 to know. 1 is high-risk: Mineral Burn (Bad Water & Fertilizer). 1 is active in October.
Mineral Burn (Bad Water & Fertilizer)Severity High DisordernowSeason: year-roundTraps and leaves blackening and dying back for no obvious reason, stunted weak growth, and a white mineral crust forming on the soil surface, especially in plants watered from the tap.
Traps and leaves blackening and dying back for no obvious reason, stunted weak growth, and a white mineral crust forming on the soil surface, especially in plants watered from the tap.
Dilute or fully replace with fresh pure water and move the plant to a clean, soft-water container; badly affected plants may not recover, so prevent it by keeping the water lean.
Use ONLY distilled, rainwater, or reverse-osmosis water, always; pot only in pure peat and washed sand/perlite; never fertilize or use potting soil, compost, or garden soil.
As with all carnivores, hard, alkaline, or mineral-rich water - and any fertilizer - harms bladderwort, whose delicate stems and traps need soft, acidic, nutrient-poor water; mineral and nutrient loading dissolves the plant and feeds smothering algae.
Crown RotSeverity Medium DiseaseSeason: Nov–FebA plant that fails to green up or emerge in spring when everything around it does - the most common way this gets discovered, and by then it is already too late.
Rot of the crown or of the winter resting bud, most common in cold, stagnant, waterlogged conditions during dormancy or in poorly ventilated indoor setups. Keep dormant plants just damp rather than flooded, give them airflow, and remove dead leaves. Badly rotted small plants are often lost, so rely on seedlings and leaf cuttings.
A plant that fails to green up or emerge in spring when everything around it does - the most common way this gets discovered, and by then it is already too late. Stems that wilt, blacken, and collapse in wet weather while the soil is clearly damp rather than dry. A crown that is soft, dark, brown, or mushy when you press or lift it, sometimes with a foul smell, instead of firm and pale. New growth that pulls away from the crown with almost no resistance. Clumps browning and going hollow in the middle while the outer growth stays alive. In stands and cover crops, patches wilting, yellowing, and thinning out after wet spells or over a mild wet winter.
There is usually no cure once the crown itself has rotted: the plant is lost, and the job is to save what you can and fix the site. Lift it, cut away every soft, dark, rotted part with a clean blade back to firm tissue, and replant only healthy divisions or firm outer growth into fresh, sharply drained soil or medium. On potted and specialist plants, repotting into fresh airy medium and keeping them drier with better airflow gives the best chance, though a badly rotted crown is usually beyond saving. Bin the rotted material rather than composting it. Replant somewhere better drained rather than back into the same wet spot - or start again from seed, cuttings, or self-sown seedlings, which is the realistic option for anything that resents being moved at all.
Drainage and airflow at the crown are everything. Match the plant to the site first: a dry-adapted perennial planted in heavy or enriched ground is on borrowed time whatever else you do. In wet or clay soil, plant on a slope, berm, raised bed, or gritty rock-garden site so water drains away from the crown rather than standing over it. Set plants at the right depth - never bury the crown - and keep mulch, dead leaves, and debris pulled back from it rather than piled against it, since damp material resting on the crown is a common trigger. Do not overwater, and ease right off during dormancy, when a resting plant wants to be barely damp rather than wet. Give crowded plantings enough space and airflow to dry out, and do not sow a stand too thickly. In cold, wet climates, divide in spring rather than fall, so plants are not recovering from surgery through the wettest months.
Crown rot is the rotting of a plant at the crown - the growing point where the stems meet the roots, right at or just below soil level. Soil fungi and water molds that live in most ground attack that tissue whenever it sits wet, cold, and airless, and because the crown is the one part a perennial cannot regrow from, losing it usually means losing the plant. It is above all a winter problem: a plant that survives hard frost perfectly well in dry ground rots out in a wet one, and the classic story is a perennial that simply never comes back in spring. Dry-adapted plants growing in heavy or over-improved soil are the most vulnerable, along with anything that has mulch, wet leaves, or piled debris sitting against the crown, and anything planted too deep.
Missed Winter DormancySeverity Medium DisorderSeason: Nov–MarA plant that keeps growing weakly all winter and then slowly declines - smaller traps each flush, loss of vigor, and eventual collapse despite otherwise correct care.
A plant that keeps growing weakly all winter and then slowly declines - smaller traps each flush, loss of vigor, and eventual collapse despite otherwise correct care.
None once the turions are lost - prevent it by protecting the resting buds; keep a backup strand or share plants so a colony can be restarted.
Give a genuine cold dormancy of about 3-4 months near 35-50 degrees F every winter - outdoors in zones 7-10, or in an unheated garage, cold frame, or refrigerator in colder zones or indoors.
Applies to TEMPERATE sundews only: hardy species (round-leaved, threadleaf) kept warm and growing all winter never form their required resting bud, gradually weaken, and can die - while subtropical species need no dormancy and are unaffected.
AphidsSeverity Low PestSeason: Apr–JulDense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves.
On a carnivorous plant skip the usual sprays: oily products ruin the dew. Rinse gently, or use a product known to be safe on carnivorous plants; some growers briefly submerge the plant in pure water to dislodge them. A sundew's own leaves catch some aphids but not the ones down in the crown.
Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.
Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.
Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.
Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.
Good & bad neighbors
First rule: keep Garden vegetables, herbs & flowers (rich-soil plants) apart. Never grow sundews with ordinary garden plants, which need fertile soil and tap water - exactly what kills these tiny carnivores.
Plant nearby
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A natural bog-garden partner: pitcher plants want the same full sun, pure water, and peat-sand bog, and sundews catch the tiny gnats that slip past the big pitchers - the low dewy rosettes carpet the ground beneath the tall traps.
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Identical culture and habitat: sundews and flytraps grow together in the wild Carolina bogs, and a sundew's fine, sticky leaves take the small prey a flytrap's snap traps are too big to bother with.
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Terrestrial bladderworts share the same wet peat and often appear on their own among sundews, adding small bright flowers with no competition for the sundew's airborne prey.
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Sphagnum MossLive sphagnum is the ideal carpet for a sundew bog - it keeps the surface acidic and wet, and sundews self-sow beautifully into living moss, which also signals good water quality by dying if minerals creep in.
Keep apart
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Garden vegetables, herbs & flowers (rich-soil plants)Never grow sundews with ordinary garden plants, which need fertile soil and tap water - exactly what kills these tiny carnivores. Keep them in a dedicated peat-sand bog with pure water only.
Varieties · 5
You pick one when you add Sundew to your garden. Its days to maturity set your harvest window.
Temperate Sundew (needs a cold winter rest) 4 varieties
Round-Leaved Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia)
The classic, widest-ranging North American sundew: small rosettes of round, long-stalked leaves on tentacles tipped with red dew, native to northern and montane peat bogs.
Variety details for Round-Leaved Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia)
Flat rosette of round, red-dewed leaves on long stalks, hugging wet moss.
speciesvery-hardywide-rangewinter-budExtremely cold-hardy, forming a tight winter resting bud, and the go-to species for cold-climate gardens.
Threadleaf Sundew (Drosera filiformis)
A striking, upright sundew with long, thread-like erect leaves coated head to foot in dew, standing several inches tall like dewy grass.
Variety details for Threadleaf Sundew (Drosera filiformis)
Tall, erect, thread-like leaves densely covered in glistening dew, unfurling from a coiled tip.
speciestallerectthreadlike-leavesNative to eastern coastal bogs, temperate, and forming winter buds; the most dramatic and architectural of the native sundews.
Spoonleaf / Water Sundew (Drosera intermedia)
A widespread species of the wettest spots - pond margins and saturated peat, even shallow standing water - with semi-erect spoon-shaped dewy leaves.
Variety details for Spoonleaf / Water Sundew (Drosera intermedia)
Semi-erect rosettes of narrow spoon-shaped dewy leaves, often in very wet or flooded peat.
specieswide-rangevery-wetsemi-erectAdaptable across much of the East and hardy where winters are cold; excellent for the wettest part of a bog.
Subtropical Sundew (no dormancy) 1 variety
Pink Sundew (Drosera capillaris)
Good first pickThe easy southeastern sundew: small pink-tinged rosettes of spoon-shaped dewy leaves that grow nearly year-round in warm climates and need no dormancy.
Variety details for Pink Sundew (Drosera capillaris)
Small flat rosettes of spoon-shaped leaves, pink to red, beaded with dew.
speciesself-sowingno-dormancyProlifically self-sowing and very beginner-friendly - it fills a bog pot with seedlings and makes an ideal first carnivorous plant.
Grower tips
Notes from growers, tagged with the zone they grow in. A person reads every post before it appears.
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