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Cherry
Two very different trees under one name: tall, high-chill SWEET cherries (Bing, Rainier) that usually need a pollen partner and mild-winter zones 5-7, and hardier, smaller, self-fertile SOUR/pie cherries (Montmorency) that fruit alone almost anywhere apples do. Birds are the universal enemy.
Safety notes The flesh is the food. The pit (kernel) and the leaves and twigs contain cyanogenic compounds - don't eat the pit; leaves and wilted foliage are toxic and not for eating (and dangerous to livestock).
Overview
The single most important thing to understand about cherries is that "cherry" is two crops. Sweet cherries (Prunus avium - Bing, Rainier, Stella, Lapins) are the big, firm, glossy dessert cherries you eat by the handful: they make large trees, demand a lot of winter chill (roughly 700-1,200 hours), are fussy about climate (they thrive in zones 5-7 and hate both hard winters and humid summers), and most need a second, compatible sweet cherry to pollinate. Sour or pie cherries (Prunus cerasus - Montmorency, North Star, Meteor) are the smaller, tarter cooking cherries: they make compact, tough, cold-hardy trees, they're self-fertile so one tree crops alone, and they grow reliably far beyond sweet-cherry country. If you have room and the climate for only one, a self-fertile sour cherry is by far the easier, more forgiving choice.
Quick facts
- Winter chill
- 900 hours below 45°FRange: 500–1200 hours
- Height
- 20 ftRange: 8–35 ft
- Spread
- 18 ftRange: 8–30 ft
- Cold
- Takes light frostdamaged below -25°F
- Heat
- Struggles above 95°F
- Life cycle
- Perennial, lives about 25 years
- Soil
- Well-drained
- Water
- Medium
- Plant spacing
- 18 ftRange: 10–30 ft
When to plant
Nothing is open today. Winter transplanting opens 3 months, Jan 15 to Mar 1.
- Transplant Jan 15 – Mar 1 Opens in 88 daysWarm edge for cherries - sweet cherries need high chill (700-1200 hours) and this is about as far south as most reliably fruit. Choose the highest-chill site and lower-chill selections; sour cherries manage a bit better.
- Transplant Mar 20 – May 1 Opens in 152 daysAbout 3 weeks before to 3 weeks after your last frost (Apr 10 here)The sweet-cherry heartland - full choice of sweet varieties (with a pollen partner) plus all sour types. Late-winter dormant planting is ideal.
Frost here: last around Apr 10 (Mar 27 to Apr 24 most years), first around Oct 25. Zone averages, your own yard may run a week or two either way.
Life stages
Establish, grow, repeat
Getting established and returning each season are different parts of the story.
Stage 1 of 5 · Getting established
First-year establishment
The first year after planting
Care at this stage
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Water deeply every 7-10 days the first season
Soak the whole root zone; cherries demand sharp drainage but steady moisture the first summer. Consistent water now sets up a strong tree.
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Mulch a ring, kept off the trunk
2-3 inches of wood chips hold moisture and beat back grass; leave the bark bare to prevent crown rot and rodents.
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Guard the trunk and paint against sunscald and borers
A tree guard stops vole and deer damage; white latex on the lower trunk deters borers and prevents sunscald cracks in thin cherry bark. Cherries are especially prone to bacterial canker in cold, wet sites, so drainage and a healthy trunk matter.
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Train to shape - and prune cherries in dry weather
Train sweet cherries to a central leader or modified central leader (they get tall) and sour cherries to an open bushy form (they stay small). Make cuts light the first year, and always prune cherries in DRY weather to keep bacterial canker and silver leaf out of the wounds.
Months are typical seasonal windows; climate, variety, and plant age can shift them.
Harvest
- Full deep color for the variety (dark red to near-black for most sweet types; bright red for sour)
- Firm and glossy with sweet flavor - sweet cherries do NOT sweeten after picking, so taste-test on the tree
- Sweet cherries release with the stem attached when pulled from the spur
- Sour cherries pull free easily and are slightly soft when fully ripe
- Pick sweet cherries dead-ripe, with stems on · every 2 days
- Pick sour cherries when soft and fully colored · every 2 days
- Prune after harvest, in dry summer weather
Per plant 200 to 4000 cherries, 10 to 100 lbPicking pick as they ripen
Cook with cherries
Watch out for
8 to know. 5 are high-risk: Brown Rot, Birds & Wildlife, Cherry Fruit Fly, Cherry Leaf Spot, Spotted Wing Drosophila. 1 is active in October.
Brown RotSeverity High DiseaseSeason: Mar–JulBrowned, collapsed blossoms in spring, sometimes with a small gummy canker on the twig behind them; firm brown spots on ripening fruit that erupt in tan fuzzy spores; and shriveled mummies clinging to the tree.
Humidity-driven, and worst on injured, split or bird-pecked cherries, which give the fungus an easy way in - rain in the last days before picking is the classic trigger.
Browned, collapsed blossoms in spring, sometimes with a small gummy canker on the twig behind them; firm brown spots on ripening fruit that erupt in tan fuzzy spores; and shriveled mummies clinging to the tree.
Fungicide at bloom for blossom blight, and again in the last two to three weeks before harvest if the weather stays warm and wet. Use only a product whose label lists your crop by name, and follow that label's pre-harvest interval - some stone-fruit fungicides (chlorothalonil, ziram) may not legally be sprayed that close to picking. Strip and destroy infected fruit the day you see it. Sanitation - clearing mummies and infected wood - is at least half the control.
Remove every mummy and rotted fruit - they are the spore source that starts next season - prune for airflow, thin so fruit don't touch, protect fruit from insect, bird and cracking injury (those wounds are the way in), and avoid wetting the foliage. Dry climates see far less of it.
The major fruit-rot disease of stone fruit: a fungus (Monilinia) that blights blossoms, cankers twigs, and rots ripening and stored fruit into fuzzy tan 'mummies' - it can destroy a ripe plum crop in days of warm, humid weather.
Birds & WildlifeSeverity High WildlifeSeason: May–JulFruit disappearing from the outermost, most exposed parts of the plant first, and from the top of a tree where you cannot reach anyway.
Because cherries ripen in a tight window and are a favorite bird food, a couple of unprotected days can cost the whole crop - which is why many growers keep cherries on dwarf rootstock, so that netting the whole tree is actually possible. Squirrels join in.
Fruit disappearing from the outermost, most exposed parts of the plant first, and from the top of a tree where you cannot reach anyway. Single neat pecks and gouges in ripening fruit, with several fruits sampled rather than one eaten through - the classic sign that it was birds rather than an animal. Heads of grain or seed going visibly lighter and emptier as they ripen, with hulls and chaff scattered underneath. Freshly sown seed vanishing off the surface of a bed before it germinates. Bird traffic in and out of the plant picking up as the crop colors, and birds waiting on nearby wires and branches. Wasps arriving at the pecked and split fruit shortly afterward.
There is no treatment once a crop is being taken - only protection and timing, so the answer is to get netting on and to pick what is ready. Reflective tape, flash ribbon, spinners, and decoy predators do work, but only for a few days at a time: birds habituate fast, so move and rotate them and never rely on them as the main defense for a crop you care about. Cut and gather grain or seed heads a little early, at firm dough, and finish drying them under cover instead of leaving them standing for the flocks. Plant a little extra, or a decoy crop the birds prefer, and accept sharing anything that crops heavily. On a wild or foraged patch, fruit going to birds and small mammals is the point of the plant rather than a problem to solve.
Net, and net early. Bird netting draped over a frame or hoops so it stands off the fruit, with the edges closed at ground level, is the only thing that reliably works at harvest scale - and it has to go on before the crop starts to color, because once birds have found the food they are far harder to displace. Keep fruit trees small enough that netting them is actually feasible; that decision gets made years earlier, at planting. Bags of mesh, organza, or paper slipped over individual heads, clusters, or prize fruit protect a small crop without netting the whole plant. Then shorten the exposure: pick promptly and completely rather than leaving ripe fruit hanging as a lure, clear split and dropped fruit that draws birds and wasps alike, and where a crop can finish off the plant, harvest a little early and ripen or dry it under cover. Rake in or cover broadcast seed so it is not lying in plain view.
Birds find ripening fruit and seed before you do. Robins, waxwings, starlings, catbirds, jays, sparrows, finches, blackbirds, and doves all work a garden, and the pressure arrives in a narrow window - the last days before harvest, when sugar rises, color changes, and the crop softens or the grain hardens. A flock can strip a small planting in a day or two, and birds that only peck rather than take whole fruit still leave wounds that rot or draw wasps. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other wildlife usually turn up on the same crop at the same time. This is competition rather than disease: the birds are not harming the plant, and a big tree or a heavy-cropping bush often has enough for everyone - but on a small planting it can be the difference between a harvest and none.
Cherry Fruit FlySeverity High PestSeason: May–JulSmall white maggots inside cut fruit, soft brown depressions on the surface, and adult flies (with banded wings) caught on yellow sticky traps as fruit colors.
Trap-based timing is essential - the window to act is between adult emergence and egg-laying in coloring fruit.
Small white maggots inside cut fruit, soft brown depressions on the surface, and adult flies (with banded wings) caught on yellow sticky traps as fruit colors.
Targeted insecticide (e.g., spinosad) timed to adult emergence and egg-laying, guided by traps; repeat as the label directs through the ripening period.
Hang yellow sticky traps to detect adult emergence and time controls; harvest promptly and completely; clean up dropped and infested fruit to break the cycle.
A small fly whose larvae (maggots) develop inside ripening cherries - the classic 'worm in the cherry.' Adults lay eggs in coloring fruit; the maggots feed at the pit, leaving soft, brown, infested cherries. A key reason commercial cherries are sprayed.
Cherry Leaf SpotSeverity High DiseaseSeason: May–AugSmall purple-to-brown spots on the upper leaf surfaces, yellowing leaves, and heavy leaf drop starting midsummer - a sour cherry that is half bare by August has it.
Severity is High on sour/pie cherries (Montmorency, North Star, Meteor) in humid regions and Medium on sweet cherries. Rare in the arid West.
Small purple-to-brown spots on the upper leaf surfaces, yellowing leaves, and heavy leaf drop starting midsummer - a sour cherry that is half bare by August has it.
Protective fungicide from petal fall through the post-harvest period in wet regions - keeping the leaves on the tree after harvest matters as much as protecting the crop. Sanitation of fallen leaves each autumn breaks the cycle.
Rake and destroy fallen leaves, which is where the fungus overwinters; prune for airflow so leaves dry fast; avoid overhead watering.
A fungus (Blumeriella jaapii) and the dominant disease of sour/pie cherries across the Great Lakes, Midwest, and Northeast. Small purple spots on the leaves turn brown, the leaves yellow, and the tree sheds them from midsummer on. Heavy defoliation strips the carbohydrate reserves the tree needs to ripen fruit and harden off, leading to poor ripening and winter kill of buds and wood.
Spotted Wing DrosophilaSeverity High PestSeason: Jun–AugSoft, sunken, weeping fruit that collapses under light pressure, and tiny egg-laying scars on otherwise perfect ripening berries.
A game-changer pest since its spread - it attacks intact ripening fruit, so the old 'only overripe fruit' assumption no longer applies to cherries. Harvest early and often, and clear every dropped and overripe fruit from under the tree.
Soft, sunken, weeping fruit that collapses under light pressure, and tiny egg-laying scars on otherwise perfect ripening berries. To confirm, crush or float suspect fruit in salt water (1-2 teaspoons per cup) and look for small white maggots floating out. In an apple-cider-vinegar or yeast-sugar trap, the males carry a distinct dark spot at each wingtip.
There is no rescue for infested fruit. Control is relentless sanitation plus trap-based monitoring to time any spray: bag or freeze culls rather than leaving them, never drop them on the ground, and use vinegar or yeast-sugar traps to tell you when the flies have arrived. Well-timed targeted sprays such as spinosad are used where pressure is high - use only a product labeled for the crop you are treating, follow the label exactly, and observe its pre-harvest interval.
Pick short and often - every two or three days through the ripening window - and remove ALL overripe and dropped fruit, because culls left on the plant or the ground breed the next generation. Cool the harvest to about 35°F promptly, which stops larvae developing in fruit you have already picked. Fine mesh under 1 mm excludes the fly where pressure is high.
An invasive vinegar fly (Drosophila suzukii). Unlike ordinary fruit flies, which need damaged or overripe fruit, the female has a saw-edged ovipositor that cuts into sound, intact, ripening fruit to lay her eggs. The larvae feed inside, so the fruit softens, sinks, weeps and collapses just as you were about to pick it. It has become the dominant pest of soft fruit across the country, and the old rule that fruit flies only bother spoiled fruit no longer applies.
Bacterial Canker (Stone Fruit)Severity Medium DiseasenowSeason: Feb, Mar, Apr, Oct, NovSunken, dark, oozing cankers with amber gum on limbs and trunk, dieback of branches above them, and 'sour sap' smell; worst in spring and fall.
A key reason cherries are pruned in summer, not winter - wet-weather wounds are the main infection route.
Sunken, dark, oozing cankers with amber gum on limbs and trunk, dieback of branches above them, and 'sour sap' smell; worst in spring and fall.
Cut out cankered wood well below the margin in dry weather, sterilizing between cuts; there's no cure, so prevention (drainage, dry-weather pruning, vigor) is the whole strategy.
Plant on well-drained sites, keep trees vigorous, avoid frost injury, and above all prune ONLY in dry summer weather (never in wet winter/spring), sterilizing tools; copper sprays in fall/spring help in high-pressure areas.
A bacterial disease (Pseudomonas) that causes sunken, oozing, gummy cankers on cherry limbs and trunks, killing branches and sometimes whole young trees - especially in cold, wet sites and where pruning wounds are made in wet weather. Cherries are notably susceptible.
Black KnotSeverity Medium DiseaseSeason: Dec–JunOlive-green, corky swellings on new growth that harden and turn coal-black and warty, encircling twigs and branches; worst on wood 1-2 years old.
Affects both sweet and sour cherries. On cherries, make the cuts in dry weather - after harvest in summer is safest - because wet-weather wounds are the main bacterial-canker entry route; on plums the dormant-season routine is fine. Worse in the humid East than the arid West.
Olive-green, corky swellings on new growth that harden and turn coal-black and warty, encircling twigs and branches; worst on wood 1-2 years old.
Prune out and destroy all knots annually - this sanitation is the core control. Fungicide sprays from bud break through early shoot growth help in high-pressure orchards but don't replace cutting out the knots.
Cut out every knot 4-6 inches below the swelling during dormant winter pruning, sterilizing the saw between cuts and burning or bagging the wood; plant more-resistant varieties; and remove wild cherry and plum nearby, which harbor the disease.
The signature disease of plums and cherries in the eastern US and Canada: a fungus (Apiosporina morbosa) that forms hard, black, crusty, warty swellings that encircle and girdle twigs and limbs, deforming and eventually killing branches. Left unchecked it takes over a tree over a few years.
AphidsSeverity Medium PestSeason: Apr–JunDense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves.
The black cherry aphid is the one that matters here - shiny black colonies that tightly curl and blacken the new leaves, on sweet cherries especially. Get under the curled tips when you spray, and apply dormant oil in winter to smother overwintering eggs where it recurs. It can badly distort young-tree growth; established trees tolerate it once beneficials build up.
Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.
Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.
Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.
Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.
Good & bad neighbors
Plant nearby
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A clover understory fixes nitrogen and outcompetes the grass that robs young cherry trees of water; feeds pollinators at bloom.
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ComfreyA classic orchard-guild plant: deep roots mine nutrients, the leaves make a rich mulch, and the flowers feed pollinators. Plant just outside the drip line.
- Traditional pairings, thin evidence
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Underplanted alliums are traditionally credited with discouraging aphids around fruit trees; low-evidence but harmless.
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French marigolds suppress root-knot nematodes and add pollinator-friendly bloom under the tree; a low-evidence but harmless guild filler.
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Trap crop that pulls aphids off the tree and draws in beneficial insects.
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Flat flower heads draw in the lacewings, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps that help hold down black cherry aphid and other soft pests.
Keep apart
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Wild cherry / chokecherryNearby wild Prunus are major reservoirs of black knot, brown rot, and cherry pests - remove them from the vicinity of cultivated cherries.
Varieties · 10
You pick one when you add Cherry to your garden. Its days to maturity set your harvest window.
Sweet 6 varieties
Bing
The iconic large, firm, deep mahogany-red sweet cherry that defines the dessert cherry - richly sweet, meaty, and the fresh-market standard.
Variety details for Bing
Large, heart-shaped, glossy dark mahogany-red; firm, sweet, dark-red flesh.
dessertneeds-pollinizerlarge-fruithigh-chillSelf-unfruitful and, awkwardly, cross-incompatible with several other popular varieties, so it needs a carefully chosen pollen partner (Van, Black Tartarian, or a self-fertile universal donor like Stella, Lapins, or Sweetheart - a sour cherry such as Montmorency will NOT do the job). Prone to splitting in rain. About 700-900 chill hours; best in zones 5-7.
Rainier
The luxury yellow cherry: large, blush-red-over-gold fruit with exceptionally sweet, delicate, low-acid flesh - the priciest cherry in the store for good reason.
Variety details for Rainier
Large, golden-yellow with a bright red blush; very sweet, pale-yellow flesh.
dessertneeds-pollinizeryellow-cherrypremiumSelf-unfruitful and needs a compatible pollen partner (Bing, Van, Lapins). Splits and bruises easily and birds adore it, so protection is essential. About 700-900 chill hours.
Stella
The breakthrough SELF-FERTILE sweet cherry - it crops alone with no partner AND pollinates most other sweet cherries, making it the go-to for a single-tree yard.
Variety details for Stella
Large, heart-shaped, dark red; firm, sweet, dark flesh.
dessertself-fertilepollinizerhigh-chillLarge, dark-red, sweet fruit of good quality. Its self-fertility revolutionized backyard sweet-cherry growing. About 700-800 chill hours.
Sour 4 varieties
Montmorency
THE American pie cherry - a self-fertile, cold-hardy sour cherry making a small, tough tree loaded with bright-red, clear-juiced tart fruit that's the standard for pies, cobblers, jam, and juice.
Variety details for Montmorency
Medium, bright clear red; soft, very tart, clear-juiced flesh.
pieself-fertilecold-hardycanningCrops alone and tolerates cold and heat far better than sweet cherries. Being a tetraploid sour cherry that blooms later than sweet types, it is NOT a dependable pollinizer for a sweet cherry - use Stella, Lapins, or Sweetheart for that. The easiest, most forgiving cherry to grow. About 700-1,000 chill hours; hardy to zone 4.
North Star
A naturally dwarf, self-fertile sour cherry (University of Minnesota) - a genetic dwarf reaching only 6-10 feet, easy to net and pick, and extremely cold-hardy (to zone 4).
Variety details for North Star
Medium, dark red; meaty, tart, reddish flesh on a compact tree.
pieself-fertiledwarfvery-cold-hardyDark-red, tart, meaty fruit good for pies and preserves. The best sour cherry for small spaces and cold climates. Very hardy.
Meteor
A hardy, semi-dwarf self-fertile sour cherry (University of Minnesota) making a naturally small 8-12 foot tree with bright-red, tart, large fruit for pies and juice.
Variety details for Meteor
Large for a sour cherry, bright red; tart yellow-fleshed fruit on a compact tree.
pieself-fertilesemi-dwarfvery-cold-hardyVery cold-tolerant and disease-resistant, with the added bonus that its later bloom helps dodge spring frost. A dependable cold-climate pie cherry.
Grower tips
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