Welsh Cawl with Short Ribs and Leeks

From the garden

• 4 large leeks, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds and rinsed well · about 2 pounds; slice the dark green tops thin and keep them separate
• 1½ lb potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
• 3 medium carrots, cut into thick coins
• 1 small rutabaga (swede), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks · or 2 parsnips
• 1 large onion, chopped
• ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped

From the pantry

• 3 lb bone-in beef short ribs
• 6 cups beef stock
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 crusty bread (optional) · for serving
• 6 oz sharp cheddar (optional) · traditional alongside, one wedge per bowl
• salt · to taste
• black pepper · to taste

1. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium-high and brown the ribs in batches, 3–4 minutes per side, until well colored. Pour off all but a spoonful of fat.
2. Add the onion and the dark green leek tops and cook 3–4 minutes until they wilt. Return the ribs, add the stock, bay leaves, and enough water to cover the meat by an inch. Bring to a boil, skim the foam, then lower to a bare simmer. Cover partly and cook 1 1/2 hours, until the meat is tender and starting to pull from the bone.
3. Lift the ribs onto a plate. Skim the fat from the broth (or chill it overnight and lift the fat off cold, the traditional way). When the ribs are cool enough to handle, pull the meat into large pieces, discarding bones and gristle.
4. Add the potatoes, carrots, and rutabaga to the broth and simmer 20 minutes, until nearly tender.
5. Return the meat and add the sliced leek whites. Simmer 10–12 minutes more, until the leeks are soft but still bright and the potatoes are done. Stir in the parsley and season well; cawl needs more salt than you expect.
6. Ladle into deep bowls with plenty of broth. Serve with crusty bread and a wedge of sharp cheddar to eat alongside or crumble in.