Tuscan Grape Harvest Bread

From the garden

• 4 cups small wine grapes (Concord, Isabella, or any dark seeded grape off the vine), stemmed, rinsed, and dried well · about 1 1/2 pounds; seeded grapes are traditional and the seeds are eaten right along with the bread
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped and chopped (optional) · the Tuscan touch; a teaspoon is plenty

From the pantry

• 1½ lb pizza dough, at room temperature 1 hour · or your own olive-oil bread dough
• ½ cup granulated sugar · half goes between the layers, half over the top
• 4 tbsp olive oil · use a fruity one; it carries the whole bread
• salt · a pinch, for the top

1. Heat the oven to 400°F and oil a rimmed sheet pan generously with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Dry the stemmed grapes thoroughly on a towel, since wet fruit turns the dough underneath to paste.
2. Stretch half the dough over the pan in a thin, uneven sheet, pressing it into the corners with oiled fingers. Scatter half the grapes and half the sugar evenly across it.
3. Stretch the remaining dough over the top, pinch the edges together roughly, and dimple the whole surface with your fingertips. Press the rest of the grapes into the dimples so they sit half buried.
4. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil, scatter the rest of the sugar with the rosemary and a pinch of salt, and rest 30 minutes, until the dough looks slightly puffed.
5. Bake 35–40 minutes, until the crust is deep gold and the juice has bubbled up into dark purple pools. Cool at least 20 minutes on the pan and serve warm, cut in squares.