Persian Green Bean and Beef Rice

From the garden

• 1 lb pole beans, topped, tailed, and cut into 1-inch lengths
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 pinch saffron threads, crushed (optional) · steeped in 3 tablespoons hot water

From the pantry

• 1 lb ground beef · ground lamb is just as traditional
• 2 cups basmati rice, rinsed until the water runs clear
• 3 tbsp tomato paste
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon
• 5 tbsp neutral oil · divided; the crust needs a generous film
• 1 cup plain yogurt (optional) · for the table
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Warm 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat and brown the beef with the onion, 8–10 minutes, breaking up the meat, until the onion is soft and the pan has color.
2. Stir in the garlic, turmeric, cinnamon, tomato paste, and a teaspoon of salt and cook 2 minutes, until the paste darkens and loses its raw edge. Add the beans and a splash of water, cover, and cook 12–15 minutes until tender.
3. Parboil the rice while the beans cook: bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil, add the rinsed rice, and boil 5–6 minutes, until the grains bend but still hold a firm core. Drain.
4. Film the bottom of a heavy pot with the remaining oil, spread an even layer of rice, then alternate rice and the bean mixture, mounding the last of it toward the center. Poke four steam holes down through the pile with a spoon handle.
5. Wrap the lid in a clean towel, clamp it on, and steam over the lowest heat 40–45 minutes. Listen for a faint crackle near the end: that is the tahdig, the crust every cook fights over, setting on the bottom.
6. Spoon the saffron water over the top, season with black pepper, and turn the pot out onto a platter or spoon it out in layers. Break the crust into shards over the rice and pass the yogurt.