Okra

Microscopic soil roundworms (Meloidogyne species) that invade roots and force them to swell into beady galls. A galled root cannot take up water and nutrients properly, so the plant stunts, yellows, wilts in heat despite watering, and yields poorly, and root and tuber crops come up forked, knobbly, hairy or cracked instead of clean. They are worst in warm, sandy soils and build up steadily wherever a susceptible crop is grown in the same ground year after year. The wounds they leave also open the way for fusarium wilt and rots.

Watch for: Stunted, yellowing, unthrifty plants that wilt in the heat even though the soil is moist, and poor yields for no obvious reason. Confirm by digging: beady swellings strung along the roots and side rootlets, and root crops that are forked, branched, cracked or knotted rather than clean.

Prevent: Rotate to non-hosts, and grow resistant varieties where they exist for your crop. A French marigold cover crop grown thickly the season before and turned in genuinely lowers populations. Build organic matter and mulch heavily, which feeds the soil life that suppresses them. Plant only clean stock, never move soil from an infested bed around the garden, and solarize badly infested ground through the hottest part of summer.

Treat: There is no in-season cure. Pull and destroy affected plants rather than composting them, and bring that ground back over several seasons with rotation, resistant varieties and marigold cover crops. Where a crop can be grown in a container of fresh mix, that sidesteps the problem entirely.

Sandy, warm soils are the classic hotspot, and many okra hybrids list nematode resistance, so variety choice is worth checking. Nematode damage also worsens fusarium wilt, so control the two together.

A soil-borne fungus (Fusarium oxysporum f. lini) that infects flax roots and clogs the water-conducting tissue, causing wilting, yellowing, stunting, and death, and persisting in the soil for years - the classic 'flax sick' soil problem.

Watch for: Wilting, yellowing, and browning of plants (often in patches), stunting, and death, worse where flax has grown before ('flax sick' ground).

Prevent: Grow resistant varieties; rotate away from okra (and related mallows) for several years; ensure good drainage; control root-knot nematodes, which open the door to wilt.

Treat: No cure for infected plants - remove them, and rotate away from flax for several years; resistant varieties and rotation are the real controls.

Often works hand-in-hand with root-knot nematodes; managing the nematodes reduces wilt losses.

Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.

Watch for: Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.

Prevent: Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.

Treat: Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.

Aphids weaken okra by sucking sap and can foster sooty mold on their honeydew; rarely fatal to a vigorous plant.

The most common sweet-corn pest: a night-flying moth lays eggs on fresh silks, and the caterpillar tunnels down into the ear tip to feed on developing kernels.

Watch for: Chewed, discolored kernels and dark frass at the ear tip, and a fat caterpillar (green, brown, or pink) inside the husk near the top.

Prevent: Choose varieties with tight husk tips; a few drops of vegetable or mineral oil (with a little Bt) on the silk 5-6 days after silking smothers young larvae; encourage natural enemies.

Treat: Damage is usually confined to the tip - just cut it off. Bt sprayed on silks catches young larvae; the ear below is fine to eat.

The same insect that attacks corn ears and tomato fruit - a good reason not to plant okra right beside corn.

Shield-shaped bugs that pierce developing pods and suck the sap from the immature beans, causing shriveled, dimpled, discolored, or aborted seeds - directly damaging the part you eat.

Watch for: Warty, deformed, or twisted pods with sunken or hardened feeding spots; shield-shaped bugs and their barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaves.

Prevent: Keep the garden and margins weed-free to reduce overwintering sites, scout as pods form, and use row cover until flowering; encourage parasitic wasps.

Treat: Hand-pick bugs into soapy water in the cool morning; spot-treat heavy pod-stage infestations. Because they damage the seeds directly, catch them before pods fill.

Deformed, bumpy okra pods are usually stink bug work rather than disease - the pods are still edible, just misshapen.

Japanese beetles are metallic green-and-copper beetles about half an inch long that emerge in early summer and feed for six to eight weeks. They feed in aggregating masses - one beetle's feeding releases a scent that draws in more - so a plant goes from untouched to covered in a couple of days. They chew the soft tissue between the leaf veins and leave the veins standing, so the leaf ends up as a brown lace skeleton, and they shred open flowers and sometimes ripening fruit as well. They work the sunniest upper parts of a plant on warm afternoons. The white C-shaped grubs spend the rest of the year in turf and pasture soil eating grass roots, and the adults then fly in from wherever they hatched, which can be some distance away.

Watch for: Clusters of shiny metallic beetles massed together on the upper, sunniest foliage and down inside open blooms, heaviest on warm sunny afternoons from around late June. Leaves reduced to lace, with the veins left intact and the tissue between them gone - unmistakable, and quite different from the ragged chewing of a caterpillar. Ragged, chewed petals and blooms that never open properly. Beetles that let go and drop straight to the ground when you disturb the plant. Feeding damage on ripening fruit, on the plants they also take fruit from. Whole branches going brown and lacy at the top of a plant while the shaded lower growth stays untouched.

Prevent: Hand-picking is genuinely the main defense in a home garden. Go out in the cool of the morning while the beetles are sluggish, hold a tub of soapy water underneath, and knock them in - they drop when disturbed, so most fall straight into it. Do it daily through the flight: because the beetles call each other in, taking them off early stops a plant becoming a beacon. Do not put pheromone or lure traps anywhere near the garden - they demonstrably pull in far more beetles than they catch. And do not count on lawn grub control: milky spore has performed poorly and inconsistently in field trials across most of the US, and treating your own turf does not reduce the adults feeding on your plants, because they fly in from surrounding properties. Where it is practical, row cover or netting through the peak flight excludes them outright. Otherwise riding out the six-to-eight-week wave is a legitimate strategy, since most established plants absorb the damage.

Treat: Persistent morning hand-picking into soapy water is the most effective home control there is, and on a vigorous established plant the damage is usually cosmetic and needs nothing else. Neem deters feeding rather than killing, and has to be reapplied. For heavy pressure, spinosad or a targeted insecticide labeled for the plant will work - but time any spray away from bloom and apply it at dusk to protect bees, and observe the pre-harvest interval on anything you eat. On flowering plants, some gardeners simply shear the blooms off for a couple of weeks and let the plant rebloom once the wave has passed, which removes the lure as well as the damage. Young plants and young trees are the ones worth defending: a mature tree or an established vine tolerates several weeks of leaf loss without lasting harm.

Okra usually shrugs off the leaf damage and keeps podding - a nuisance more than a crop threat in most gardens. Row cover during peak flight is an option on a young planting.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that coats leaves - and often stems, buds, and fruit - in a white-to-gray powder that looks like spilled talcum. It is not one fungus but a large family of them, each fairly specialised to its own group of plants, which is why mildew on one crop rarely jumps to an unrelated one beside it. Unlike most leaf diseases it does not need wet leaves: it thrives on warm dry days followed by humid nights, and it takes hold fastest where plants stand crowded in still air or in shade. The coating blocks light, so heavily covered leaves yellow, brown, and drop early. On many plants that is mostly disfiguring and arrives late enough not to matter; where it strips away the leaves a crop still needed to finish, it costs you size, sweetness, and quality.

Watch for: Round white powdery spots on the upper leaf surfaces that spread and merge until whole leaves look dusted. It usually starts on the oldest, lowest, most shaded leaves and works upward, so check there first. Look at the undersides too, and at stems, buds, and flower stalks, which get coated as it advances. Leaves that yellow, brown, curl, or go crisp and drop early under the coating. New growth that opens small, crumpled, or twisted where the fungus has reached the shoot tips. On plants where it gets onto the fruit, a dull gray film, russeted or scarred skin, and cracking. Late in the season, tiny dark specks scattered through the white felt - that is the fungus setting up to overwinter on the debris.

Prevent: Give plants room. Crowding and still air are the biggest single driver, so space at the full recommended distance, thin seedlings properly, and divide or prune out congested growth until air moves through the plant. Full sun and an open position help; deep shade and a still corner against a wall are where it always starts. Water at the base rather than overhead, and water early in the day so nothing stays damp overnight. Keep plants evenly watered - drought stress at the roots leaves them far more susceptible, even though the fungus itself likes dry air. Go easy on nitrogen, since soft lush growth is the most vulnerable. Where resistant varieties exist for what you are growing, choosing one is the single most effective thing you can do on a plant that mildews every year. Clear infected leaves and stems away at the end of the season rather than composting them.

Treat: Start early: sprays protect healthy tissue, they do not clean up leaves that are already coated. Pick off and bin the worst leaves as soon as you see them, and open the plant up by thinning or pruning so air moves through. On anything that regrows quickly, shearing the whole plant back forces a clean flush and beats spraying. If it keeps spreading, potassium bicarbonate, horticultural oil, or neem applied weekly will hold it - cover both leaf surfaces. Sulfur also works, but it burns the foliage of some plants, should never go on in heat, and must not be mixed with or applied close behind an oil spray. Whatever you use must be labeled for the plant you are treating: follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval on anything you eat. Do not compost badly infected material. Late-season mildew on a plant that is finishing anyway is usually cosmetic; on a crop still filling out it is worth acting on.

Mostly a cosmetic, end-of-season issue on okra: the plant is often still setting pods when the lower leaves powder up, so it usually arrives too late to hurt the crop much.