Add it to your home screen and it opens full screen: no browser bars, one tap away, and everything stays signed in. Free, nothing to download from an app store.
- Tap the Share button in your browser
- Scroll down and choose “Add to Home Screen”
- Open GrowSomeFood from your home screen
- Open your browser’s menu
- Choose “Add to Home screen” or “Install app”
- Open GrowSomeFood from your home screen
Lily-of-the-Valley
POISONOUS - never eat any part, and never plant it where children or pets play. All parts contain cardiac glycosides; COOKING DOES NOT DESTROY THEM. The red-orange autumn berries are the usual cause of child poisoning, and even the vase water is toxic. For foragers: the spring shoots resemble RAMPS and SOLOMON'S SEAL - but this has NO onion smell and comes up as a dense carpet of short spears. Suspected ingestion is an emergency - call poison control immediately.
Overview
A beloved fragrant groundcover that is poisonous in every part, spreads without limit, and is the deadly lookalike for two commonly foraged spring plants.
Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) is one of the most loved and most problematic plants in cultivation. The scent is genuinely extraordinary and the nodding white bells are beautiful — and everything else about it argues against planting it.
It is poisonous in every part. The plant contains cardiac glycosides — convallatoxin and relatives, chemically similar to digitalis — which disturb heart rhythm. Cooking, drying and boiling do not destroy them. The bright orange-red autumn berries are the usual cause of childhood poisoning, and even the water a bouquet has stood in is toxic.
It spreads without limit. A shallow mat of running rhizomes expands every year into a dense monoculture that shades out woodland wildflowers; it is listed as invasive in parts of the northern United States and Canada. Digging half of it out leaves fragments that regrow thicker.
And it is a foraging hazard. Its spring shoots come up alongside, and closely resemble, ramps and Solomon's seal — two plants people gather to eat. This entry exists mostly so you can tell them apart.
At a glance
- Sun
- Part shade · Shade
- Water
- Medium
- Spacing
- 4–12 in (typ. 8)
- Mature height
- 6–12 in (typ. 8)
- Start by
- —
- Frost
- Hardy
- Spread
- 12–120 in (typ. 24)
- Soil
- Consistently moist
- Temperature
- Damaged below -40°F · struggles above 90°F
- Self-sows
- Yes — expect volunteers
When to plant
No planting window on record for this zone.
Life stages
- Spring shoots (the foraging hazard) Mar, Apr, May (yearly)
-
Dense carpet of short spears - no onion smellLily-of-the-valley emerges as tightly packed pointed spears from a shallow running rhizome, each unrolling into two or three broad leaves from a basal sheath, and never getting taller than about 8-12 inches. This is the stage confused with RAMPS (which smell strongly of onion - lily-of-the-valley has no smell at all) and with SOLOMON'S SEAL shoots (which are individually spaced along a thick jointed rhizome and elongate into one arching 2-4 ft stem).
-
Never gather shoots from a patch you did not watch last yearAt the spear stage no flower is available to confirm identity, and the leaves alone are not a safe test. The only reliable rule for ramps or Solomon's seal is to harvest from a clump you personally watched flower and die back the previous season.
Dense uniform carpets of short spears in shade - not a ramp patchAny spring shoot gathered without an onion smell -
Dense carpet of short spears - no onion smell
- Bloom Apr, May, Jun (yearly)
-
Nodding white bells on a one-sided stalkA leafless stalk carries a row of small, waxy, nodding white bells along one side, powerfully fragrant. This is the only time of year the plant announces itself clearly - mark the patch now if you forage the same woodland for ramps or Solomon's seal.
-
Do not bring it indoors as a cut flower where children or pets areThe flowers are the classic wedding posy, and the vase water they stand in becomes toxic. If it is in the house, keep the vase out of reach and pour the water down a drain, not into a pet bowl or a plant a pet chews.
Cut posies left within reach of children or petsVase water tipped into pet-accessible dishes -
Nodding white bells on a one-sided stalk
- Orange berries (the child hazard) Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct (yearly)
-
Remove berries where children playBright red-orange berries follow the flowers and are the single most common route to childhood poisoning from this plant - they look edible and sit at toddler height. Where a colony exists near a play area, cut the fruiting stalks off and bin them.
Red-orange berries at child heightBerries dropped onto lawns and paths -
Remove berries where children play
- Winter rhizome Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec (yearly)
-
The rhizome is where the colony livesTops die away but the shallow mat of running rhizomes ('pips') persists and expands every year. Any fragment left behind regrows, which is why partial digging makes a colony denser rather than smaller.
Colony edges creeping into beds and woodland each year -
The rhizome is where the colony lives
Watch out for
Aggressive Rhizome Spread High
A shallow mat of running rhizomes expands every year into a dense monoculture that shades out woodland wildflowers. Any fragment left in the soil regrows, so partial digging thickens the colony instead of reducing it.
Watch for: Rhizomes running past the intended area, dense new shoots filling open water, and seedlings appearing in any bare wet mud downwind.
Prevent: Do not plant it; where it exists, install a deep physical barrier (8-10 inches) and keep it away from woodland edges. Remove berries to limit bird-carried spread.
Treat: Repeatedly cut stems below the waterline through a full season to drown the rhizomes, dig out the mats, or draw the water down; expect it to take persistence over more than one year.
Poisoning by Ingestion High
All parts contain cardiac glycosides that disturb heart rhythm, and cooking does not destroy them. The two common routes are children eating the bright orange-red berries and foragers mistaking spring shoots for ramps or Solomon's seal. Even vase water becomes toxic.
Watch for: Berries within reach of children; any wild spring green gathered without an onion smell; symptoms including nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, confusion and irregular heartbeat.
Prevent: Do not plant it. Remove fruiting stalks where children play, keep cut stems and their vase water out of reach, and never gather spring greens that do not smell of onion when crushed.
Treat: Suspected ingestion is an EMERGENCY - call poison control or emergency services immediately and do not wait for symptoms. Discard any doubtful foraged batch entirely rather than tasting to check.
Good & bad neighbors
Grow
How to recognize it - and why the shoot stage is the dangerous one for anyone foraging ramps or Solomon's seal.
You should not plant this, so the useful skill is recognition. In bloom it is unmistakable: a leafless stalk of small, waxy, nodding white bells arranged along one side, over broad paired leaves, about 8 inches tall, in shade.
The danger is before it blooms. In early spring it pushes up tightly packed pointed spears, and at that stage it can be mistaken for two edible plants:
Versus ramps. Both make smooth broad green spring leaves in rich shade. The test is smell, and it is absolute: crush a leaf, and ramps smell powerfully of onion and garlic. Lily-of-the-valley has no onion smell whatsoever. No smell means do not eat it. This confusion has caused serious poisonings, and ramp foragers are the population most at risk.
Versus Solomon's seal. Look at how the shoots are arranged and where they are going. Lily-of-the-valley comes up as a dense carpet of short spears from a shallow running rhizome, with two or three leaves from a basal sheath, and it stops at 8-12 inches. Solomon's seal shoots stand individually spaced along a thick, jointed horizontal rhizome and elongate into a single arching 2-4 ft stem with leaves along its length. If you are looking at a carpet, it is not Solomon's seal.
The safest rule for either plant: harvest only from a clump you personally watched flower and die back the previous year.
Care
If you have inherited it: contain it, remove berries near children, and understand that partial digging makes it worse.
Most people meet this plant by inheriting a colony. Living with it means three things.
Contain it. The rhizomes run just below the surface, so a deep physical barrier — a buried edging at least 8-10 inches down, or a bed bounded by mown lawn and hard paving — is what actually holds it. Do not let it reach a woodland edge.
Remove the berries anywhere children play. Cutting the fruiting stalks in late summer removes the main poisoning route and reduces seedling spread by birds.
Understand removal. Every rhizome fragment left in the ground regrows, so half-hearted digging thickens a colony rather than clearing it. Genuine removal means repeated, complete excavation of the rhizome mat over more than one season, or long-term smothering with heavy light-excluding cover. Wear gloves: handle the plant, then keep your hands away from your mouth and eyes, and wash afterwards.
Troubleshooting
Suspected ingestion is an emergency. Foraging doubt is resolved by throwing the batch out, not by tasting.
Suspected ingestion — by anyone, of any part, including berries or vase water — is a medical emergency. Call poison control or emergency services immediately and do not wait for symptoms. Effects can include nausea and vomiting, blurred vision, confusion, and dangerous disturbances of heart rhythm. Children are at risk from very small amounts.
“I may have picked this instead of ramps.” Do not taste it to find out. Discard the entire batch — one misidentified leaf contaminates everything gathered with it, and you cannot reliably sort it afterwards. If anything has already been eaten, treat it as an emergency.
Pets. Dogs and cats are both affected, and dogs sometimes chew the berries. Contact a veterinarian immediately.
It is taking over. That is normal and expected. See Care — containment is realistic, casual removal is not.
History
A plant carried through European folklore and medicine, and a source of the same class of heart drugs as foxglove.
Lily-of-the-valley runs deep through European tradition — a May Day flower in France, where muguet is still sold on the streets on the first of May, and a fixture of bridal bouquets across the anglophone world.
Its cardiac glycosides put it in the same pharmacological family as foxglove, and it was used historically in heart medicine and, in wartime shortages, as a digitalis substitute. That history is exactly why it should not be experimented with: the compounds are potent, the margin between effect and harm is narrow, and the dose in any home preparation is unknowable.
In North America it escaped gardens long ago and is now naturalized through northern woodlands, where its dense mats displace native spring wildflowers — the same trailing ephemerals that make those woods worth walking in spring.
Growing across climates
Hardy and shade-loving across the cool North, weakening in the hot South - and most aggressive exactly where woodlands are richest.
Lily-of-the-valley is at home in zones 3-7, thriving in cool, moist, shaded ground and tolerating deep shade better than almost any other groundcover. That is precisely the habitat of the native spring ephemerals it displaces, which is why it is treated as invasive across the Northeast, upper Midwest and Pacific Northwest.
It weakens in zones 8 and warmer, where hot nights and dry summers limit it; in the Deep South it often persists feebly rather than spreading. If you live in its comfortable range and are choosing a fragrant shade groundcover, native alternatives — foamflower, wild ginger, green-and-gold, woodland phlox — do the job without the poisoning risk or the takeover.
No grower tips for Lily-of-the-Valley yet — yours could be the first.
Sign in to share what works in your garden.