Lavender

Lavender's aromatic oils make it a poor host, so infestations stay light and rarely need anything done.

Dense clusters of tiny insects packed onto shoot tips, flower buds, and the undersides of young leaves. Curled, cupped, or distorted new growth that never opens properly. A sticky shine on the leaves - and on whatever sits under the plant - that later goes black with sooty mold. Tiny white cast skins left behind where a colony has been feeding. Ants running steadily up and down the stems, which is often the first thing you notice. Mottled, streaked, or misshapen leaves that do not grow out can mean a virus the aphids brought with them rather than the feeding itself.

Knock the colonies off with a hard jet of water and repeat every few days - on most plants that alone ends it. Pinch out or prune off the worst-infested tips rather than treating the whole plant. If colonies keep rebuilding, spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil directly onto the insects, covering leaf undersides, and repeat weekly until they are gone; treat early or late in the day, and never spray a wilted or heat-stressed plant. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides - they kill the ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that were about to solve the problem for you, and aphid numbers usually come back worse afterward. Anything you spray must be labeled for the plant you are treating; follow that label and observe its pre-harvest interval. On anything you eat, wash leaves, heads, and buds well before use, since aphids hide down in crowns, folds, and tight growth.

Go easy on nitrogen: the soft, lush growth that heavy feeding produces is exactly what aphids breed on. Check new growth once a week through spring and early summer so you catch colonies while they are still small, and rub the first few out with your fingers. Leave flowering plants nearby and skip broad-spectrum sprays - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps do most of this work for free, and they only stay if there is something for them to eat. Keep ants off the plant where you can, since they protect aphids from those predators. Water steadily so plants are not stressed, and check any new plant over before you bring it home or move it indoors, since aphids usually arrive on something else.

Aphids are small soft-bodied sap-suckers - green, black, gray, pink, or waxy white, and mostly wingless - that gather in dense colonies on the tenderest new growth: shoot tips, buds, and the undersides of young leaves. They breed extremely fast in mild weather, so a few can become hundreds inside a week. Their feeding curls and distorts soft growth, and the sticky honeydew they excrete coats everything below and turns black with sooty mold. Ants often farm and defend the colonies for that honeydew. A few aphids are normal on almost any plant and a healthy plant shrugs them off; only dense, persistent colonies do real damage, and some aphids also spread plant viruses as they feed.

Common on lavender and cosmetic only; introduced as the realistic minor lavender pest in place of the draft's generic list.

Blobs of white foam on stems and in leaf joints in late spring, occasionally with slight leaf distortion where they feed.

Simply hose the foam and nymphs off with a strong jet of water; no other control is usually warranted.

Little needed - healthy plants shrug them off; a spring cleanup of debris reduces overwintering sites.

The nymphs of froghoppers, which hide inside a blob of white frothy 'spit' on stems and leaf axils while they suck sap - conspicuous but rarely damaging on a healthy sage.

Essentially a greenhouse and indoor problem on lavender. Healthy plants in open sun and moving air rarely see it.

Clouds of tiny white insects rising when you shake the plant, flat scale-like nymphs stuck to the leaf undersides, a sticky shine on the leaves below them, black sooty mold over that, and yellowing, weakened growth.

Hose off light infestations, then spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil onto the leaf undersides where they actually sit. Sprays do not kill the eggs, so repeat every few days for two or three weeks or the population simply rebuilds. Yellow sticky traps knock back the adults, and outdoors natural enemies usually finish the job.

Inspect the undersides of any new plant before it joins the others, and quarantine anything you are bringing under cover or indoors for winter. Avoid crowding and heavy nitrogen feeding, which produce the soft growth they prefer. Hang yellow sticky traps early to catch the build-up while it is still small, and encourage lacewings, ladybugs and parasitic wasps outdoors.

Tiny white sap-sucking insects that cluster on leaf undersides and lift off in a cloud when the foliage is brushed. They weaken growth, and the honeydew they excrete coats the leaves below in a sticky film that blackens with sooty mold. Some species also transmit plant viruses. They breed fast in warm, still, sheltered air, which is why they are far more trouble under cover and on plants overwintered indoors than on the same plant outside.