Indian Grass

Uncommon in this drought-adapted prairie grass - it only happens in wet, poorly drained, stagnant ground, and mainly over winter.

A plant that fails to green up or emerge in spring when everything around it does - the most common way this gets discovered, and by then it is already too late. Stems that wilt, blacken, and collapse in wet weather while the soil is clearly damp rather than dry. A crown that is soft, dark, brown, or mushy when you press or lift it, sometimes with a foul smell, instead of firm and pale. New growth that pulls away from the crown with almost no resistance. Clumps browning and going hollow in the middle while the outer growth stays alive. In stands and cover crops, patches wilting, yellowing, and thinning out after wet spells or over a mild wet winter.

There is usually no cure once the crown itself has rotted: the plant is lost, and the job is to save what you can and fix the site. Lift it, cut away every soft, dark, rotted part with a clean blade back to firm tissue, and replant only healthy divisions or firm outer growth into fresh, sharply drained soil or medium. On potted and specialist plants, repotting into fresh airy medium and keeping them drier with better airflow gives the best chance, though a badly rotted crown is usually beyond saving. Bin the rotted material rather than composting it. Replant somewhere better drained rather than back into the same wet spot - or start again from seed, cuttings, or self-sown seedlings, which is the realistic option for anything that resents being moved at all.

Drainage and airflow at the crown are everything. Match the plant to the site first: a dry-adapted perennial planted in heavy or enriched ground is on borrowed time whatever else you do. In wet or clay soil, plant on a slope, berm, raised bed, or gritty rock-garden site so water drains away from the crown rather than standing over it. Set plants at the right depth - never bury the crown - and keep mulch, dead leaves, and debris pulled back from it rather than piled against it, since damp material resting on the crown is a common trigger. Do not overwater, and ease right off during dormancy, when a resting plant wants to be barely damp rather than wet. Give crowded plantings enough space and airflow to dry out, and do not sow a stand too thickly. In cold, wet climates, divide in spring rather than fall, so plants are not recovering from surgery through the wettest months.

Crown rot is the rotting of a plant at the crown - the growing point where the stems meet the roots, right at or just below soil level. Soil fungi and water molds that live in most ground attack that tissue whenever it sits wet, cold, and airless, and because the crown is the one part a perennial cannot regrow from, losing it usually means losing the plant. It is above all a winter problem: a plant that survives hard frost perfectly well in dry ground rots out in a wet one, and the classic story is a perennial that simply never comes back in spring. Dry-adapted plants growing in heavy or over-improved soil are the most vulnerable, along with anything that has mulch, wet leaves, or piled debris sitting against the crown, and anything planted too deep.

Cosmetic on a prairie grass this vigorous; a crowded, shaded clump is the one that shows it.

Orange to rusty-brown flecks, spots or streaks on the leaves, often raised and powdery on the undersides, worst in muggy weather and on crowded, shaded or poorly ventilated plants.

Remove affected foliage and improve airflow. This is almost always cosmetic and outgrown, so fungicide is rarely warranted.

Space plants for airflow, grow them in full sun, and avoid overhead watering. Remove the old foliage at the annual cut-back, since spores carry over on last year's leaves.

A minor fungal leaf disease that raises orange to rusty-brown pustules on the foliage in humid, crowded, poorly ventilated conditions. On a tough, well-sited plant it is cosmetic - it marks the leaves late in the season and the plant grows straight through it - and it is rarely worth treating.