Dewberry

New spring shoots that are spindly, pale, and clustered ('witches broom'), with bright powdery orange pustules coating the undersides of the leaves.

No cure - dig out and destroy infected plants entirely, roots and all, as soon as you see the orange spores, before they infect neighbors. This is a rogue-it-out disease.

Plant certified disease-free, resistant stock; remove wild brambles nearby (a major source); give good airflow. Once a plant shows it, it's infected for life.

A systemic fungal disease specific to blackberries and related brambles: it lives permanently inside the whole plant, producing masses of bright orange spores on leaf undersides in spring. It never kills the plant outright but deforms it, stops it fruiting, and spreads to healthy plants.

The early ripe berries are prized by birds and mammals, which work the sprawling low patch fast - a mark of the plant's ecological value as much as a nuisance to foragers. Check the patch every two or three days at peak and pick promptly; net only a cultivated patch.

Fruit disappearing from the outermost, most exposed parts of the plant first, and from the top of a tree where you cannot reach anyway. Single neat pecks and gouges in ripening fruit, with several fruits sampled rather than one eaten through - the classic sign that it was birds rather than an animal. Heads of grain or seed going visibly lighter and emptier as they ripen, with hulls and chaff scattered underneath. Freshly sown seed vanishing off the surface of a bed before it germinates. Bird traffic in and out of the plant picking up as the crop colors, and birds waiting on nearby wires and branches. Wasps arriving at the pecked and split fruit shortly afterward.

There is no treatment once a crop is being taken - only protection and timing, so the answer is to get netting on and to pick what is ready. Reflective tape, flash ribbon, spinners, and decoy predators do work, but only for a few days at a time: birds habituate fast, so move and rotate them and never rely on them as the main defense for a crop you care about. Cut and gather grain or seed heads a little early, at firm dough, and finish drying them under cover instead of leaving them standing for the flocks. Plant a little extra, or a decoy crop the birds prefer, and accept sharing anything that crops heavily. On a wild or foraged patch, fruit going to birds and small mammals is the point of the plant rather than a problem to solve.

Net, and net early. Bird netting draped over a frame or hoops so it stands off the fruit, with the edges closed at ground level, is the only thing that reliably works at harvest scale - and it has to go on before the crop starts to color, because once birds have found the food they are far harder to displace. Keep fruit trees small enough that netting them is actually feasible; that decision gets made years earlier, at planting. Bags of mesh, organza, or paper slipped over individual heads, clusters, or prize fruit protect a small crop without netting the whole plant. Then shorten the exposure: pick promptly and completely rather than leaving ripe fruit hanging as a lure, clear split and dropped fruit that draws birds and wasps alike, and where a crop can finish off the plant, harvest a little early and ripen or dry it under cover. Rake in or cover broadcast seed so it is not lying in plain view.

Birds find ripening fruit and seed before you do. Robins, waxwings, starlings, catbirds, jays, sparrows, finches, blackbirds, and doves all work a garden, and the pressure arrives in a narrow window - the last days before harvest, when sugar rises, color changes, and the crop softens or the grain hardens. A flock can strip a small planting in a day or two, and birds that only peck rather than take whole fruit still leave wounds that rot or draw wasps. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other wildlife usually turn up on the same crop at the same time. This is competition rather than disease: the birds are not harming the plant, and a big tree or a heavy-cropping bush often has enough for everyone - but on a small planting it can be the difference between a harvest and none.

Dewberry's early crop often ripens before fly numbers peak, which is a real advantage over the later caneberries.

Soft, sunken, weeping fruit that collapses under light pressure, and tiny egg-laying scars on otherwise perfect ripening berries. To confirm, crush or float suspect fruit in salt water (1-2 teaspoons per cup) and look for small white maggots floating out. In an apple-cider-vinegar or yeast-sugar trap, the males carry a distinct dark spot at each wingtip.

There is no rescue for infested fruit. Control is relentless sanitation plus trap-based monitoring to time any spray: bag or freeze culls rather than leaving them, never drop them on the ground, and use vinegar or yeast-sugar traps to tell you when the flies have arrived. Well-timed targeted sprays such as spinosad are used where pressure is high - use only a product labeled for the crop you are treating, follow the label exactly, and observe its pre-harvest interval.

Pick short and often - every two or three days through the ripening window - and remove ALL overripe and dropped fruit, because culls left on the plant or the ground breed the next generation. Cool the harvest to about 35°F promptly, which stops larvae developing in fruit you have already picked. Fine mesh under 1 mm excludes the fly where pressure is high.

An invasive vinegar fly (Drosophila suzukii). Unlike ordinary fruit flies, which need damaged or overripe fruit, the female has a saw-edged ovipositor that cuts into sound, intact, ripening fruit to lay her eggs. The larvae feed inside, so the fruit softens, sinks, weeps and collapses just as you were about to pick it. It has become the dominant pest of soft fruit across the country, and the old rule that fruit flies only bother spoiled fruit no longer applies.