White Wine Poached Pears

From the garden

• 4 medium firm pears, peeled, stems left on · still hard at the core; ripe fruit collapses in the pot

From the pantry

• 3 cups dry white wine · one standard bottle, crisp and not oaky
• ¾ cup granulated sugar
• 1 lemon, zest in wide strips, plus the juice
• 1 piece fresh ginger, sliced into thin coins · a thumb; or a cinnamon stick and 3 cloves if you keep them
• ½ cup heavy cream, softly whipped (optional) · for serving
• 1 pinch salt

1. Peel the pears from stem to base in long strokes, leaving the stems attached, and slice a thin coin off each bottom so they stand upright. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon to keep them pale.
2. Combine the wine, sugar, lemon zest and juice, ginger, and salt in a saucepan just wide enough to hold the pears standing. Warm over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar has fully dissolved.
3. Lower the pears in, top up with water if they are not nearly covered, and lay a round of parchment on the surface. Simmer very gently 20 to 30 minutes, never at a boil, turning once or twice.
4. Test with a thin knife at the thickest part: it should slide in with a little resistance, not fall through. Underripe fruit takes longer, so start checking at 20 minutes and keep going as needed.
5. Cool the pears in the syrup, at least 1 hour and ideally overnight in the fridge, which is when they take on the wine and turn translucent all the way through.
6. Lift the pears out and boil the strained syrup hard for about 10 minutes, until reduced to roughly 1 cup and lightly thickened. Spoon it over the pears and serve with whipped cream.