Sweet Woodruff Pudding (Waldmeister Pudding)

From the garden

• 6 sprigs sweet woodruff, picked before flowering, wilted on a plate 2–3 hours · about 1/4 ounce, or overnight wilting; this is the traditional dose and it is enough, do not add more
• 1 cup strawberries, hulled and halved (optional) · the classic partner; alpine strawberries are even better

From the pantry

• 2 cups whole milk
• ½ cup heavy cream
• ¼ cup sugar
• 3 tbsp cornstarch
• 1 egg yolk (optional) · for a richer, more custardy set
• 1 pinch salt

1. Wilting is what unlocks the scent: fresh woodruff smells of almost nothing, and only as it dries does the coumarin aroma appear. Tie the wilted sprigs loosely with kitchen string so they are easy to remove.
2. Warm the milk and cream in a saucepan just until steaming, not boiling. Take it off the heat, push the woodruff bundle under the surface, cover, and steep 20–30 minutes. Taste: it should smell sweetly of hay and vanilla. Lift out the bundle, pressing it gently, and discard it.
3. Whisk the sugar, cornstarch, and salt together in a small bowl, then whisk in about 1/2 cup of the warm infused milk until smooth. If using the yolk, whisk it in here too. Return this slurry to the pan.
4. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly and scraping the corners of the pan, until the pudding thickens and just comes to a bubble, 4–6 minutes. Keep it bubbling gently for a full minute more so the cornstarch cooks through and loses any chalky taste.
5. Pour into four small bowls or glasses. Press plastic wrap onto the surface if you dislike a skin, or leave it (many people fight over the skin). Chill at least 2 hours until set.
6. Serve cold, with strawberries on top if you have them. A spoonful of cold cream poured over is the traditional finish.