Salted Edamame in the Pod

From the garden

• 1½ lb edamame, still in the pod, stripped from the stems and rinsed · about 6 cups of pods
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted · crushed with salt, this is gomashio

From the pantry

• ¼ tsp red pepper flakes (optional) · standing in for shichimi togarashi
• 4 tbsp coarse salt · divided: 1 tablespoon to rub the pods, 3 for the pot, a pinch to finish

1. Snip the tip off both ends of each pod with kitchen scissors. It takes a few minutes and it is what lets the salt reach the beans, so it is worth doing while the water heats.
2. Rub the pods in a colander with 1 tablespoon of the salt, pressing hard for a minute to scuff off the fine hairs, then rinse and drain.
3. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with 3 tablespoons of salt, enough that it tastes like the sea. Add the pods and boil uncovered 4–5 minutes, until a bean squeezed out of its shell is bright green and tender with a slight bite.
4. Drain and spread the pods in one layer on a sheet pan so they stop cooking. Skip the ice bath, which rinses away the salt you just worked in.
5. Crush the toasted sesame seeds with a pinch of salt in a mortar until about half are broken, scatter over the hot pods with the pepper flakes if using, and set out an empty bowl for the shells.