Ramp Butter Pasta

From the garden

• 1 bunch ramps, wild garlic, or field garlic, washed well, leaves and stems separated

From the pantry

• 1 lb spaghetti or linguine
• 6 tbsp butter
• ½ cup grated parmesan · plus more for serving
• 1 lemon (optional) · zest only
• red pepper flakes (optional) · a pinch
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Slice the ramp stems (and any bulbs you have) thinly and roughly chop the leaves, keeping the two piles separate: the stems need heat, the leaves barely any.
2. Cook the pasta in well-salted boiling water until just shy of al dente. Before draining, scoop out and reserve 1 cup of the starchy cooking water.
3. While the pasta cooks, melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced stems with a pinch of salt and red pepper flakes if using, and cook 2–3 minutes until softened and fragrant. Don't let the butter brown.
4. Add the drained pasta to the skillet with the ramp leaves and a splash of pasta water. Toss constantly for a minute until the leaves wilt and the butter and starchy water pull together into a light sauce that clings to the noodles.
5. Off the heat, toss in the parmesan and lemon zest if using, loosening with more pasta water as needed until glossy. Season with salt and lots of black pepper and serve immediately with extra parmesan.