Prepared Horseradish

From the garden

• 8 oz horseradish root, scrubbed, peeled, and cubed

From the pantry

• ½ cup distilled white vinegar (5%)
• ¼ tsp salt

1. Open a window or work under a running exhaust fan before you start: freshly grated horseradish releases fumes that make the strongest onion feel gentle. Scrub the root, peel it, and cut it into small cubes.
2. Grind the cubes in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of cold water until finely grated, scraping down once or twice. When you open the lid, hold it at arm's length and keep your face well back: the first waft is the strongest.
3. Now the only decision that matters: heat builds the longer the grated root sits before vinegar stops the reaction. Stir in the vinegar and salt immediately for a mild table sauce, or wait a full 3 minutes first for maximum fire.
4. Pack into a clean half-pint jar, pressing out air pockets and adding a splash more vinegar if needed to moisten the top. Cap and refrigerate. A small spoonful wakes up roast beef, smoked fish, potato salad, and cocktail sauce.