Burdock Takikomi Gohan

From the garden

• 1 large burdock root (gobo), scrubbed, not peeled · about three quarters of a pound of root
• 1 large carrot, cut into fine matchsticks
• 2 tbsp fresh chives or scallion tops, finely sliced

From the pantry

• 4 oz shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
• ¾ lb boneless chicken thighs, cut into half-inch pieces
• 2 cups short-grain rice, rinsed until the water runs clear
• 3 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tsp sugar · a tablespoon of mirin stands in nicely if a bottle is open
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, finely julienned
• 1 tbsp rice vinegar · for the holding water, to keep the cut burdock pale
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil · stirred through at the end, never cooked
• salt · to taste

1. Scrub the burdock under running water with the back of a knife or a stiff brush and leave the skin on, because most of the flavour and the antioxidants sit directly beneath it. Shave the root into thin slivers the way a pencil is sharpened, turning it as the knife works, and let every sliver fall straight into a bowl of water mixed with the rice vinegar.
2. Soak the shavings 10 minutes, no longer, which takes the astringent edge off without washing the flavour out, then drain and press them dry in a towel. Cut thin and cut into water are the two rules burdock actually cares about, since a thick chunk stays stubbornly firm and a dry cut face turns grey in seconds.
3. Combine the drained rice, burdock, carrot, shiitake, chicken, ginger, soy sauce and sugar in a heavy pot with a tight lid, pour in 2 cups of water, and level the surface with a spoon. Leave it unstirred from here so the grains cook evenly.
4. Bring to a boil uncovered over medium-high heat, then cover, drop to the lowest setting and cook 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Rest the covered pot off the heat another 10 minutes to let the rice finish in its own steam.
5. Fold the rice up from the bottom with a wet paddle, lifting rather than stirring, so the burdock and chicken run through every scoop. Sprinkle the sesame oil over, taste for salt, and serve hot with the chives scattered on top.