Cold Peanut Noodles with Smashed Cucumbers

From the garden

• 3 medium cucumbers, smashed with the flat of a knife and cut into chunks
• 2 cloves garlic, grated
• 3 green onions, thinly sliced

From the pantry

• 12 oz wheat noodles (lo mein or spaghetti)
• 14 oz extra-firm tofu, pressed dry and cubed
• ⅓ cup smooth peanut butter
• 3 tbsp soy sauce — divided between sauce and cucumbers
• 3 tbsp rice vinegar — divided
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
• 2 tsp sugar
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil — for the tofu
• red pepper flakes (optional) — or chili crisp, to taste
• salt

1. Toss the smashed cucumber chunks with a half teaspoon of salt in a colander and let them drain 15 minutes while you cook — smashing rather than slicing opens ragged edges that drink up dressing. Then toss with 1 tablespoon each of the soy sauce and rice vinegar and half the garlic.
2. Cook the noodles until just tender, drain, and rinse under cold water until fully chilled, tossing to shake off the starch. Cold rinsing is what keeps the noodles springy, not gummy.
3. Pat the tofu cubes dry, then crisp them in the vegetable oil in a hot nonstick skillet, 8–10 minutes, turning until golden on most sides. Season with a pinch of salt.
4. Whisk the peanut butter with the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, the sesame oil, sugar, ginger, and remaining garlic, then thin with cold water a tablespoon at a time until it's the texture of heavy cream.
5. Toss the cold noodles with the peanut sauce, top with the tofu, the smashed cucumbers and their juices, green onions, and pepper flakes or chili crisp if you like heat.