Chive-Butter Salmon with Crispy Smashed Potatoes

From the garden

• 1 bunch fresh chives, finely snipped, divided
• 1½ lb small yellow or baby potatoes

From the pantry

• 1½ lb salmon fillets — 4 fillets
• 4 tbsp butter, softened
• 1 lemon — zest into the butter, wedges to serve
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• salt — to taste
• black pepper

1. Boil the potatoes in well-salted water 15–18 minutes, until a fork slides in with no resistance. Drain and let them steam dry 5 minutes — dry surfaces crisp; wet ones steam. Heat the oven to 450°F.
2. While they boil, mash the softened butter with two-thirds of the chives, the lemon zest, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Set the chive butter aside at room temperature.
3. Space the potatoes out on an oiled sheet pan and press each one flat to about 1/2 inch with the bottom of a glass. Drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt, and roast 20–25 minutes until the ragged edges are deeply browned and crisp.
4. Push the potatoes to one side, lay the salmon fillets on the pan, season them, and roast 10–12 minutes more, until the fish flakes easily and reaches 145°F at the thickest part.
5. Top the hot salmon and potatoes immediately with slices of chive butter so it melts over everything, scatter with the remaining chives, and serve with lemon wedges and a green salad.