Stir-Fried Celery with Minced Beef

From the garden

• 8 stalks celery, sliced 1/4 inch thick on a sharp bias · about one large head; keep the pale inner leaves
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths

From the pantry

• ¾ lb ground beef
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, minced
• 2 tbsp soy sauce · divided; 1 tablespoon marinates the beef
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 2 tsp rice vinegar
• ½ tsp granulated sugar
• ½ tsp red pepper flakes
• 2 tbsp neutral oil · divided
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 1½ cups rice · steamed, for serving
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Toss the ground beef with 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, the cornstarch, and a good grind of black pepper. Leave it to sit while you cut the celery: the cornstarch is what keeps the meat tender.
2. Slice the celery thin on a sharp bias, cutting across any strings, and set the pale inner leaves aside. Stir the remaining soy sauce, the rice vinegar, and the sugar together in a small bowl.
3. Heat a wok or wide skillet over high until it just begins to smoke, add 1 tablespoon of the oil, and spread the beef in a thin layer. Sear undisturbed 1 minute, then break it up and cook until browned, 2 minutes.
4. Push the beef to one side, add the rest of the oil, and stir-fry the ginger, garlic, and pepper flakes 30 seconds, until fragrant but not colored. Add the celery and toss hard for 2 minutes.
5. Pour in the soy mixture and stir-fry 1 minute more: the celery should stay squeaky, with a pale green center. Fold in the green onions, celery leaves, and sesame oil, taste for salt, and serve over rice.