Classic Cauliflower Cheese

From the garden

• 1 head cauliflower, broken into even florets · about 2 lb, plus the tender inner leaves and peeled stalk
• 1 tbsp chives or parsley, chopped (optional)

From the pantry

• 4 tbsp butter · divided
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 2½ cups whole milk, warmed
• 2 cups sharp cheddar, coarsely grated
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard
• ⅛ tsp ground nutmeg · a scrape is plenty
• ½ cup panko breadcrumbs
• ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, finely grated · for the crumb topping
• salt · to taste
• black pepper

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Boil the florets in well-salted water 4–5 minutes, until a knife goes in with slight resistance, then drain and leave them in the colander to steam dry. Wet cauliflower thins the sauce.
2. Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, whisk in the flour, and cook 1–2 minutes until it smells nutty. Add the warm milk a splash at a time at first, whisking smooth after each addition, then pour in the rest and simmer 4–5 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
3. Pull the pan off the heat and stir in the cheddar, mustard, nutmeg, and a good grind of pepper until the cheese melts smoothly. Taste and salt firmly: this sauce has a whole head of cauliflower to season.
4. Tip the cauliflower into a buttered baking dish, pour the sauce over, and turn it gently so every floret is coated. Melt the last tablespoon of butter, toss it with the panko and Parmesan, and scatter that over the top.
5. Bake 20–25 minutes, until the crumbs are deep golden and the sauce bubbles at the edges. Rest 5 minutes, scatter with herbs if using, and serve beside roast chicken, ham, or a Sunday joint.