Add it to your home screen and it opens full screen: no browser bars, one tap away, and everything stays signed in. Free, nothing to download from an app store.
- Tap the Share button in your browser
- Scroll down and choose “Add to Home Screen”
- Open GrowSomeFood from your home screen
- Open your browser’s menu
- Choose “Add to Home screen” or “Install app”
- Open GrowSomeFood from your home screen

St. John's Wort
Hold a leaf to the light and it is full of translucent pinholes; crush a flower bud and your fingers stain red. That plant is the biggest drug-interaction problem in herbal medicine - it makes the body clear contraceptives, blood thinners, transplant and HIV drugs faster - and a listed noxious weed across much of the West.
Not a casual tea herb. St. John's wort switches on the liver enzyme CYP3A4 and the transporter P-glycoprotein, so the body clears many prescription drugs faster and they stop working - oral contraceptives (breakthrough bleeding, pregnancy), warfarin, transplant anti-rejection drugs, HIV antiretrovirals, some heart and cancer drugs. With SSRIs it can cause serotonin syndrome. Never take it without telling your prescriber. It also photosensitises skin, and grazing livestock severely.
Overview
The one thing to knowThe identification is two gestures.
St. John's wort is a wiry, knee-high perennial with flat-topped clusters of bright yellow flowers that open around midsummer - traditionally around St John's Day, 24 June, which is where the name comes from. It grows on roadsides, old pasture, logged ground and rangeland from New England to the Pacific, and most people meet it either as a supplement on a pharmacy shelf or as the plant taking over a field.
The identification is two gestures. Hold a leaf up to the sky: it is peppered with translucent dots that look like pinholes - oil glands, and the reason the species is called perforatum. Then crush an unopened flower bud between your fingers: they stain purple-red. That red is hypericin, and it is behind both halves of this plant's story.
The medicine. St. John's wort is the most heavily studied herb in the world, with real trial evidence behind standardised extracts in mild to moderate depression. It is also the single biggest source of drug interactions in herbal medicine, because it switches on the liver enzyme CYP3A4 and the transporter P-glycoprotein and makes the body clear a large share of all prescription drugs faster than intended. Oral contraceptives fail. Anticoagulants stop protecting. Transplant patients reject organs. That story is set out in full under Medicine, and it is the main reason this page exists.
The weed. In the American West the same plant is Klamath weed, a listed noxious weed that spread across millions of acres of northern California and the Pacific Northwest rangeland in the first half of the twentieth century. It runs from a woody crown by short creeping runners, banks seed that stays alive in the soil for a decade or more, and photosensitises grazing animals - sheep, cattle and horses that eat it blister and peel on any unpigmented skin. Do not plant it. The neat garden shrubs sold as St John's wort, like 'Hidcote', are different species of Hypericum and are not this plant.
Quick facts
For identification. Not a growing guide.
- Life cycle
- Perennial, lives about 8 years
- Where it grows
- Full sun · Part sun, well-drained soil
- Height
- 30 in12 to 40
- Spread
- 24 in12 to 40
- Cold
- Takes hard frostdamaged below -30°F
- Heat
- Struggles above 100°F
- Self-sows
- Yes. Never let it set seed.
Through the year
How to recognize it in each season.
Spring: shoots from the crown and from creeping runners
Mar to Jun, every year- Hold a leaf up to the light - the 'perforations' settle itShoots come up in a tight clump from a woody crown, plus outliers from short creeping runners. Leaves are small, stalkless, opposite, and in pairs down a two-ridged stem. Hold one up to the sky: it is peppered with translucent dots that look like pinholes, which is what perforatum means. They are oil glands, not holes. Nothing else you are likely to confuse it with has them.
- Dig young clumps out whole while they are still clumpsA new plant can be dug. Work in moist soil, lift with a fork rather than slicing with a spade, and take the whole woody crown plus the short lateral runners spreading out from it - a crown left behind resprouts, and so does a runner with a bud on it. Check the spot every few weeks for the rest of the season and pull each resprout. On rangeland this is only realistic for small, new infestations.
Key signs- Paired stalkless leaves peppered with translucent pinhole dots
- A two-ridged, wiry stem rather than a round one
- Short runners pushing new shoots out beyond the clump
Midsummer: yellow flowers, and the red stain
Jun to Aug, every year- Crush a bud - the fingers go purple-redFlat-topped clusters of bright yellow five-petalled flowers open around midsummer, each with a burst of long stamens and black dots along the petal edges. Crush an unopened bud between your fingers and they stain purple-red: that is hypericin, the compound behind both the medicinal reputation and the photosensitisation of livestock. It is a definitive field test.
- Cut it at bloom, before the capsules setFlowering is the deadline. A stand cut at full bloom sheds no seed that year, which is the cheapest single thing you can do to stop it spreading; it will regrow from the crown, so this is containment rather than control. If you are treating rather than cutting, systemic products work best on actively growing plants at bud to early bloom, and again on autumn regrowth. Use a product whose label lists the site you are treating and follow that label.
Key signs- Flat-topped clusters of bright yellow flowers with long stamens
- Black dots along the petal margins
- Purple-red stain on your fingers from a crushed bud
- Pale sunburned skin on grazing animals in the same pasture
Late summer: capsules, and a seed bank that outlasts you
Aug to Oct, every year- Bag the seed heads rather than shaking them looseFlowers give way to small three-parted capsules that dry rusty brown and split, releasing thousands of tiny seeds per plant. The seed is sticky when wet and travels on boots, tires, hooves, hay and mud, and it stays viable in the soil for a decade or more. Where you find capsules, slide a bag over the stem before you cut it, and put everything in the trash rather than the compost heap.
- Mark the patch now - next year's work is hereRusty capsule heads and reddening foliage make late summer the easiest time of year to see the true extent of a stand from a distance. Walk the edges and mark them. The seed bank means a patch that looks clean after one good season is not clean, and the ground you mark now is the ground to check every spring for the next several years.
Key signs- Small three-parted capsules drying rusty brown
- Foliage reddening in late summer
- New patches downslope, along tracks and at gateways
Winter: dead stems over a living crown
Nov to Feb, every year- The standing dead stems map the stand for youTop growth dies back to wiry reddish-brown stems that stand through winter holding their empty capsules, while the crown and its runners stay alive underground. That makes winter a good time to survey a property honestly - walk the stems, mark the outliers, and plan the spring. Nothing about a hard winter reduces the stand; the crowns shrug off zone-3 cold.
Key signs- Wiry reddish-brown stems standing with empty capsule heads
- Outlying stems well beyond the patch you remembered
- Fresh basal growth appearing under the dead stems in late winter
Watch out for
4 to know. 3 are high-risk: Herb-Drug Interactions (CYP3A4 & P-glycoprotein), Rangeland Invasion & a Decade-Long Seed Bank, Photosensitisation of Grazing Livestock. 3 are active in September.
Herb-Drug Interactions (CYP3A4 & P-glycoprotein)Severity High DisordernowA prescription that suddenly seems less effective after starting a supplement - breakthrough bleeding on a contraceptive, an INR that will not settle, rising viral load, transplant rejection markers.
A prescription that suddenly seems less effective after starting a supplement - breakthrough bleeding on a contraceptive, an INR that will not settle, rising viral load, transplant rejection markers. Agitation, sweating, tremor, fast heartbeat or confusion after combining it with an antidepressant, a triptan or tramadol, which needs urgent medical attention. Increased sunburn on fair skin at higher doses.
This is a medical matter, not a garden one. Do not stop a prescription because of an interaction - contact the prescriber, who can adjust monitoring or dosing while the enzyme effect washes out over one to two weeks. Suspected serotonin syndrome is an emergency: seek immediate care. Nothing on this page substitutes for a clinician's advice.
Tell your prescriber and your pharmacist before you take it and before you stop it, and treat it as a drug rather than a tea. Do not add it on top of a prescribed antidepressant, and do not swap one for the other yourself. Anyone on a contraceptive, an anticoagulant, a transplant medicine, an HIV medicine, an antiarrhythmic or cancer treatment should treat this as a conversation to have before the first dose. Home-made preparations have no dose control at all.
St. John's wort is the textbook herb-drug interaction. It induces the liver enzyme CYP3A4 and the drug transporter P-glycoprotein, which between them handle a large share of all prescription medicines, so the body clears those medicines faster than the prescribed dose assumes and they stop working. Documented consequences include contraceptive failure with breakthrough bleeding and unplanned pregnancy, loss of anticoagulant control on warfarin, organ rejection in transplant patients on ciclosporin or tacrolimus, and loss of viral suppression on HIV antiretrovirals. Digoxin, some statins and several cancer drugs are also affected. Separately, combined with SSRIs, SNRIs, triptans or tramadol it can contribute to serotonin syndrome. The effect builds over one to two weeks and fades over a similar period, so stopping matters as much as starting.
Rangeland Invasion & a Decade-Long Seed BankSeverity High DisordernowA clump thickening outward with new shoots a few inches beyond the old crown.
A clump thickening outward with new shoots a few inches beyond the old crown. New patches appearing at gateways, along tracks, downslope and wherever soil or hay has been moved. Rusty capsule heads and reddening foliage in late summer, which is the easiest time to see the true extent of a stand. Seedlings reappearing on ground cleared several seasons ago.
Dig small clumps whole in moist soil, taking the woody crown and the lateral runners, then remove every resprout for the rest of the season. On larger infestations, systemic herbicide timed to bud and early bloom, or to autumn regrowth, is the practical tool - use a product whose label lists the site and follow that label, including grazing and haying restrictions. Where the introduced Chrysolina leaf beetles are active, leave them to work. Reseed cleared ground with competitive grasses, and plan on checking the same ground for several years.
Do not plant it, and do not move it. Clean boots, tires, mower decks and machinery before leaving an infested area, and do not move soil or hay from infested to clean ground. Keep pasture dense and avoid overgrazing, because it establishes on bare disturbed soil and struggles against thick competition. Cut stands at full bloom so they cannot seed while you plan the longer job.
The reason it is a listed noxious weed across much of the West. It runs two ways at once: a woody crown pushes out short lateral runners so a single plant thickens into a patch and regrows from any crown or runner fragment, while a mature plant sets thousands of tiny seeds that are sticky when wet and stay viable in the soil for ten years or more. It colonises bare, disturbed, logged and overgrazed ground, displaces forage grasses, and at its historic peak covered millions of acres of northern California and Pacific Northwest rangeland. Because the seed bank outlasts almost any control programme, a patch that looks clean after one good season is not clean.
Photosensitisation of Grazing LivestockSeverity High DisordernowReddened, swollen, weeping or peeling skin on white faces, pink muzzles, ears, eyelids and udders while pigmented areas stay normal.
Reddened, swollen, weeping or peeling skin on white faces, pink muzzles, ears, eyelids and udders while pigmented areas stay normal. Animals crowding into shade, restless or rubbing, off feed, dropping condition and milk yield. Damage showing up in animals fed hay from an infested field, with no plant visible in their pasture.
Move affected animals out of the sun and off the infested ground immediately, and call a vet - severe photosensitisation is painful, prone to infection, and can kill. Provide shade and clean water, and keep animals off the stand until it has been controlled. Do not feed hay from an infested field to pale-skinned stock.
Keep the plant out of pasture and hay ground: cut stands at full bloom so they cannot seed, treat or remove infestations, and keep the sward dense, since the plant colonises overgrazed and bare ground. Do not turn pale-skinned stock onto a heavily infested paddock, particularly in bright weather when the young growth is most palatable. Check hay ground before cutting.
The hypericin that stains your fingers red when you crush a bud is a photodynamic pigment. Animals that graze the plant absorb it, and it reacts with sunlight in the skin, so any area with little pigment or thin cover burns severely from the inside out. Sheep, cattle, goats and horses are all affected, and pale-skinned or white-faced animals suffer most: white faces, pink muzzles, ears, eyelids and udders blister, weep, swell and peel. Affected stock become restless, seek shade, go off feed and lose condition, and severe cases can be fatal. This is a real economic reason the plant was fought so hard on western rangeland - and hay cut from an infested field carries the compound with it.
Klamath Weed Beetles (Chrysolina)Severity Medium PestSmall shiny metallic beetles on the shoots in spring, and grey-green larvae on the growing tips.
Small shiny metallic beetles on the shoots in spring, and grey-green larvae on the growing tips. Foliage skeletonised, shoots stripped and stands thinning out year on year. Patches that flower poorly or not at all where beetles have been working through the spring.
Do not spray a weed stand the beetles are working on - you would be removing the most effective control available and it costs you nothing. On an ornamental hypericum, hand-picking is usually enough; a targeted insecticide is rarely justified for cosmetic damage.
No prevention is wanted on the weed itself. If you grow one of the ornamental hypericums, the beetles can occasionally move onto it in the West; keep valued shrubs away from a heavy weed stand and check the growing tips in spring.
A pest of the plant and a friend to everyone else. Chrysolina quadrigemina and C. hyperici are small metallic blue-green to bronze leaf beetles imported from Europe and released in northern California in 1945-46 as biological control for Klamath weed. Adults and larvae feed on the foliage and growing tips, defoliating plants and exhausting the crown over repeated seasons. The release collapsed the western infestation and is regarded as the first major biological control success against a weed in North America; the beetles are now established through much of the West and hold many stands at a fraction of their historic size. They feed only on Hypericum and are harmless to other plants.
Grower tips
Notes from growers, tagged with the zone they grow in. A person reads every post before it appears.
Nobody has posted about St. John's Wort yet.
Free account. Your post shows your grower name and zone, never your email.