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Green-and-Gold
Green-and-gold is a safe, non-toxic native ornamental groundcover and pollinator plant, not a food crop. No special handling precautions; not toxic to pets or livestock.
Overview
A low, well-behaved native groundcover for shade that blooms golden star flowers for months - one of the longest-flowering, most useful carpets you can grow under trees, with soft heart-shaped leaves that stay semi-evergreen in the South.
Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) is one of the best native groundcovers for part shade, and its name says it all: a low carpet of soft green heart-shaped leaves studded with cheerful golden five-petaled star flowers. What sets it apart is the bloom season - it flowers heavily in spring and, in cooler climates, keeps reblooming through summer and into fall, one of the longest-flowering of any shade groundcover.
It's a plant of the Southeastern woodland edge, happy in the moist, humusy, part-shaded conditions under trees and shrubs where lawns fail and few flowers bloom for long. It stays low (4-12 inches), spreads politely into a mat (the running form faster than the clumping type), holds semi-evergreen foliage in the South, feeds early pollinators, and is left alone by deer. Unlike many groundcovers, it's neither invasive nor a thug - just a tidy, long-blooming, easygoing native that quietly does exactly what a shade groundcover should.
At a glance
- Sun
- Part sun · Part shade · Shade
- Water
- Medium
- Spacing
- 10–18 in (typ. 14)
- Mature height
- 4–12 in (typ. 8)
- Start by
- Direct sow · Transplant · Division
- Frost
- Hardy
- Germination
- 14–60 days (typ. 30) @ 60–72 °F (typ. 68)
When to plant
Zone 7a typical frost: last Apr 10 · first Oct 25
Life stages
- Rooting in day 0–60 from transplant
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Keep evenly moist to establishevery 6 dGreen-and-gold is a woodland-edge plant that likes moist, humusy soil in part shade. Water a new planting to establish; it's low-care once going and knits into a mat over time.
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Mulch with leaf litterA light woodland mulch of shredded leaves suits it, holds moisture, and helps the spreading forms fill in. Don't bury the low crowns.
Drying out in too much sun or dry soil (it wants moisture and shade)Slow spread the first year (it fills in as it establishes) -
Keep evenly moist to establishevery 6 d
- Long spring-to-fall bloom Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct (yearly)
-
Enjoy the long show, deadhead lightlyBright golden five-petaled star flowers cover the low mat heavily in spring, then rebloom through summer and fall in cooler climates - one of the longest bloom seasons of any native groundcover. A light shearing of spent flowers can tidy it and encourage rebloom.
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Feed the early pollinatorsThe early, long-lasting flowers are a useful nectar and pollen source for spring bees and other pollinators in the shade garden, where few other plants bloom so long.
Bloom tapering off in summer heat (it often reblooms as it cools)Pollinators on the flowers -
Enjoy the long show, deadhead lightly
- Summer foliage mat Jun, Jul, Aug (yearly)
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Keep it from baking dryGreen-and-gold stays as a low mat of soft, hairy heart-shaped leaves through summer; keep it reasonably moist in shade. In hot regions it appreciates protection from harsh afternoon sun.
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Weed until the mat closesKeep weeds out while the mat fills in; once established it forms a dense enough cover to shade out most weeds. The spreading var. australe knits in faster than the clumping type.
Leaf scorch or wilting in dry, sunny, hot conditionsSlugs on the foliage in damp shade (usually minor) -
Keep it from baking dry
- Winter (semi-evergreen) Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec (yearly)
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Leave the semi-evergreen matIn the South and milder areas the foliage is semi-evergreen and holds through winter; in colder zones it dies back. Leave it be over winter and tidy any tattered leaves in early spring.
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Divide in early spring to propagate or renewIn late winter or early spring, divide clumps or lift rooted runners to make more plants, fill gaps, or renew a tired mat.
Winterburn on exposed foliage in cold zones (tidy in spring)Rooted runners to divide -
Leave the semi-evergreen mat
Watch out for
Slugs & Snails Pest LowApr, May, Jun
Mollusks that chew holes in the low foliage in the cool, damp shade woodland phlox favors - usually cosmetic on an established mat.
Watch for: Ragged holes in the leaves and slime trails in moist shade.
Prevent: Reduce excess debris and give airflow; established mats tolerate light grazing.
Treat: Iron-phosphate bait or hand-picking if severe; usually unnecessary.
Powdery Mildew Disease LowJul, Aug, Sep
The defining zinnia disease: a fungal white powdery coating that spreads over leaves in humid or crowded conditions, worst in late summer. Rarely kills but disfigures foliage and weakens the plant.
Watch for: White dusty film starting on lower leaves and climbing, leaves yellowing and dropping beneath the blooms.
Prevent: Wide spacing, base (never overhead) watering, full sun and airflow; grow resistant series (Profusion, Zahara) where it recurs every year.
Treat: Remove the worst leaves, improve airflow; potassium bicarbonate, neem, or sulfur sprays slow it. Cutting flowers off healthy upper growth keeps the display going regardless.
Leaf Scorch (sun & drought) Disorder LowJun, Jul, Aug
Not a disease but an environmental stress: wintergreen browns, crisps, and declines when grown in too much sun or allowed to dry out, since it is a plant of the cool, shaded, moist forest floor. Worst in hot regions and open sites.
Watch for: Browned, crisped, or bleached leaves and thinning of the mat, worst in sun, heat, and dry soil.
Prevent: Site in part to full shade, keep the soil consistently moist and acidic, and mulch with pine needles or leaf litter to keep the roots cool.
Treat: Move plants to shadier, moister conditions and water; trim scorched foliage - it recovers with better siting.
Good & bad neighbors
Varieties · 4
A vigorous, fast-spreading selection with glossy foliage and long red stolons that quickly knit into a groundcover mat - one of the best forms for covering ground fast in shade while keeping the long golden bloom.
A popular garden selection chosen for compact, tidy growth and an especially heavy, long-lasting display of golden flowers - a dependable, floriferous form for shade edging and small groundcover plantings.
The spreading southern variety that runs by stolons to form a low, dense groundcover mat 4-6 inches high, rooting as it goes. The form to choose for true groundcover use under trees and along shady paths - faster to fill in than the clumping type, and still well-behaved.
The clumping form: tidy tufts of hairy heart-shaped leaves 6-12 inches tall, topped by golden star flowers over an exceptionally long season. Stays as neat clumps rather than running, good for edging and filling small shady spots.
Grow
Part shade to shade and moist, humusy soil are ideal; it's easy and well-behaved - plant it from divisions as a woodland groundcover and keep it out of hot, dry, full sun.
Green-and-gold is easy given the right spot: part shade to shade and moist, humusy, well-drained soil, the conditions of a woodland edge. It takes morning sun or dappled light well (which encourages heavy bloom), but it dislikes hot, dry, full sun, where it scorches and struggles - so give it shade from harsh afternoon sun, especially in the South, and don't let it bake dry.
Plant it from divisions or transplants 10-18 inches apart as a groundcover under trees, shrubs, and along shady paths; it establishes and knits into a low mat over a season or two. The spreading variety (var. australe) fills in faster as a true groundcover, while the more upright clumping type (var. virginianum) stays as tidy tufts - choose by whether you want a carpet or clumps. Seed is slow and erratic, so division is the practical way to propagate and expand it. Once established, it's low-care and long-blooming.
Care
Very low care - keep it moist and shaded, shear off spent flowers to tidy and prompt rebloom, and divide in spring to fill gaps; it spreads politely and rarely needs containing.
Green-and-gold is close to no-maintenance in the right spot. The main things are to keep it evenly moist (it wilts and scorches in drought and hot sun) and shaded from harsh afternoon light. A light shearing of the spent flowers after the main spring flush tidies the mat and encourages the summer-and-fall rebloom that makes this plant special; otherwise it needs no deadheading.
It spreads politely - the running form into a mat, the clumping form only slowly - so unlike aggressive groundcovers it rarely needs containing; instead you'll more often want to divide it in spring to fill gaps or make more plants. No feeding is needed in decent woodland soil; a light leaf-litter mulch keeps it happy. It's largely pest- and disease-free, with only occasional slugs in damp shade and a little leaf scorch or winterburn to tidy in spring. Deer generally leave it alone.
Harvest
No harvest - green-and-gold is grown as a groundcover, not for food or cutting; its 'yield' is a long-blooming shade carpet and early nectar for spring pollinators.
There's no harvest from green-and-gold: it's a groundcover, grown for its foliage and flowers, not for food or cutting (the low, short-stemmed blooms aren't cut flowers). Its 'yield' is what it does in the garden - covering difficult shady ground with a tidy, long-blooming golden carpet where little else thrives.
Its practical and ecological value is real, though. As one of the longest-blooming native shade groundcovers, it provides months of color in spots that are otherwise green at best, and its early, persistent flowers are a useful nectar and pollen source for spring bees and other pollinators in the shade garden - a season and setting where forage can be scarce. So while there's nothing to pick, green-and-gold earns its keep by covering ground, suppressing weeds, and feeding early pollinators, all on the shady, moist sites that challenge most flowering plants.
Propagation & seed saving
Easiest by division of the clumps or by lifting rooted runners in spring; seed works but is slow and erratic, so division is the practical route to expand a planting.
Green-and-gold is most easily propagated by division. In early spring (or fall in mild areas), dig and split the clumps, or simply lift the rooted runners that the spreading form sends out, and replant - each takes readily, and this is the quick, reliable way to fill in a groundcover planting or make more plants. Because the running variety roots as it spreads, it practically propagates itself.
It can be grown from seed, too, but the seed is slow and erratic to germinate (it benefits from cold stratification, so fall-sow it outdoors), and it self-sows only modestly. For most gardeners, division is far faster and gives instant, true-to-type plants, especially for the choice spreading selections and named forms. Keep specific varieties (clumping versus running, or named cultivars) going by division rather than seed, since seedlings can vary.
Nutrition
Not a food plant - green-and-gold is grown as a groundcover; its value is ecological and practical, as long-season early pollinator forage and a weed-suppressing shade carpet.
Green-and-gold isn't eaten - it's an ornamental groundcover, grown for covering ground and for its flowers, not for food or nutrition.
Its value is ecological and practical. Because it blooms so early and for so long in the shade, it offers a dependable nectar and pollen source for spring bees and other pollinators in a setting - shady, wooded ground - where long-season floral forage is genuinely hard to come by. As a dense, low groundcover, it also does real work: covering bare soil under trees and shrubs, suppressing weeds, reducing erosion on shady slopes, and holding moisture, all without the aggression of many groundcovers. A native, deer-resistant, well-behaved carpet that feeds pollinators and asks little, green-and-gold supports the garden's ecology and stability rather than feeding the gardener.
History
A modest wildflower of Southeastern woodlands long admired for its unusually long bloom, brought into gardens as a choice native groundcover and refined into spreading, heavy-blooming selections.
Green-and-gold is a native of the rich woodlands and shaded slopes of the Southeastern United States, from the Mid-Atlantic and Ohio Valley south through the Appalachians and coastal plain. A modest, low-growing wildflower, it was long admired by botanists and woodland ramblers for a striking trait: it seems to bloom almost endlessly, its golden stars appearing from early spring and recurring through the season - reflected in its cheerful old names 'goldenstar' and 'golden knee.' The genus name Chrysogonum comes from the Greek for 'golden joint,' describing the flowers borne at the leaf nodes.
As native-plant and shade gardening grew, green-and-gold moved from the woods into cultivation as a choice native groundcover, valued for thriving and blooming in the difficult dry-to-moist shade under trees. Nurseries selected and named superior forms - faster-spreading running types (var. australe) for groundcover use and especially heavy-blooming clones - making this quiet woodland native a mainstay of modern Southeastern shade and pollinator plantings.
Troubleshooting
Most problems come from too much sun or dry soil (scorch and poor growth); shear after spring bloom for rebloom; slugs are minor; slow spread just means giving it time or choosing the running form.
Leaves scorched, plant struggling: too much hot sun or too-dry soil - green-and-gold wants part shade and moist, humusy ground; move it to shade from harsh afternoon sun and keep it watered. Little rebloom after spring: normal in hot summers - it often pauses in heat and reblooms as it cools; a light shearing of spent flowers after the spring flush encourages more, and even moisture and part shade help. Spreading too slowly / not covering: the clumping variety (virginianum) stays as tufts rather than a carpet - choose the running form (var. australe) for groundcover, keep it moist, and divide to fill gaps faster. Chewed leaves in damp shade: slugs - usually minor; reduce excess moisture and hiding spots, and hand-pick if needed. Tattered or browned foliage after winter: normal winterburn on semi-evergreen leaves in cold zones - tidy it in early spring and fresh growth follows. Serious pests and diseases are rare.
Growing across climates
Hardy across much of the East (zones 5-9) and especially at home in the humid Southeast; it needs shade and moisture in the heat, and holds semi-evergreen foliage in mild-winter areas.
Green-and-gold is well suited to the eastern United States, especially its Southeastern home range. Zones 5-6: hardy and reliable; the foliage dies back in cold winters and returns in spring, with the heaviest bloom in the cooler months. Zones 7-9 (its Southeastern heartland): excellent, thriving in humid, wooded conditions and often holding semi-evergreen foliage through mild winters; the key is giving it shade from harsh afternoon sun and steady moisture so it doesn't scorch in summer heat. Hot, humid regions: a natural fit for shade, though in the deepest heat it blooms most in spring and fall and rests in midsummer. Cooler climates: it reblooms most freely where summers are mild, extending its golden show. Its main limits are hot dry sun and drought, not cold or humidity - given part shade and moist, humusy soil, green-and-gold is an easy, long-blooming groundcover across the eastern half of the country.
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